[AT] off topic, need help on new parts chasing truck.

[charlie hill]

Cecil,  I have a long shot idea for you.  I have a 454 Chevy in a boat
that I no longer use but back when I did I had a spell of one
exhaust valve sticking open.  I finally pulled the head of and it
turned out to be a valve guide that had water seeping in from the
water jacket in the head, causing the valve to stick in the guide.
I don't know if your Ford engine has the valve guides running through
the water jacket or not but if they do you might try running some
stop leak through the engine.  If that is the problem and IF the stop
leak works and IF you can get the valve freed up that might push the
problem down the road a ways.   It won't cost much to find out.

Charlie

-----Original Message----- 
From: Cecil R Bearden
Sent: Sunday, February 01, 2015 8:30 AM
To: Antique tractor email discussion group
Subject: Re: [AT] off topic, need help on new parts chasing truck.

Ralph:
I had a 53 Plymouth w/ flathead 6 that stuck the valve on the back cyl.
In getting it unstuck, I bent the valve stem below the valve head.  When
it finally unstuck, I rotated the piston where the valve was to be
seated, and took a hammer & Punch and drove the valve into the seat to
straighten the valve.  It has ran fine ever since.  I have the utmost
respect for the old flathead 6 Chrysler engines.  I grew up with them in
Massey combines.  I was the helper small enough to set the valves on the
combine.  I also am amazed at the reliability of the old Chrysler slant
6 industrial engine.  I have some of them from old John Deere  and
Hesston Swathers.
The old flathead Chrylser 6 engines were great on the racing circuit in
my early days.  If you over revved then, the exhaust valve on #6 would
float and hit he spark plug and slow the engine down.  It was really
hard to over rev  a Chrysler 6 !!

I have one in a 30 ton P&H crane.  It has a 4cyl Chrysler industrial on
the Crane and a 6 on the Truck..

Cecil in OKla


On 1/31/2015 8:56 AM, Ralph Goff wrote:
> On 1/30/2015 10:34 PM, Cecil R Bearden wrote:
>> Just purchased a 2000 f150 4x4 Lariat supercab 5.4L with all the bells &
>> whistles.. Previous owner bought it at auction and it started running
>> rough, they took it to a reputable mechanic who replaced all spark
>> plugs, coil packs, lifter, rocker, and spring on the #7 cyl . They used
>> a camera to look at piston to determine if valve had struck piston.
>> Valve is still sticking. It will start and run fine for 5-10 seconds
>> then too rough to keep idling. sorta smooths out at 2000 rpm. I talked
>> to the mechanic who said that they spent over $1000 or work & time
>> trying to unstick the valve. The valve would unstick when they pulled it
>> up, but the cam would stick it down.  It runs fine for about 5-10
>> seconds after starting then runs so rough that it will barely move out
>> of its tracks. P.O. said that he put a new battery in it and then took
>> it for a drive to go to the detail shop and it started running rough.
>> They then took it to the mechanic.  P.O. decided not to put any more
>> money in it when told that the valve was stuck.Mechanic told me he did
>> not think valve was bent.
>>
>> I have posted on Ford truck Enthusiasts forum and only received dumb 
>> looks.
>>
>> Any suggestions??
>>
>> Cecil in OKla
> So Ford still has sticking valves. I've been fighting the same problem
> in my 76 year old Ford flathead in the 39 Deluxe.
> The problem was 30 some years of inactivity. The flathead is easy to get
> at the valves through the spark plug holes and
> I was able to spray some penetrating oil that ran down the stems. After
> soaking I was able to use a hammer and punch
> to tap the valve closed. Repeated many many times and finally I think I
> have the old Ford running on all 8.
> Now for Ford number two.
> I guess it is no help to you Cecil but it just struck me as quite a
> co-incidence .
>
> Ralph in Sask.
>
>
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