[AT] HELP I'm stumped. truck problems, overheating

[charlie hill]

Thanks Mike,

I agree but this engine has 250,000 on it so before
I tear into it I'll waste a few bucks on block sealant to make sure.
I sure hope it's not an engine issue because this engine runs perfectly,
uses no oil and the same oil pressure it had when new.

There are some new innovations in those products and apparently
they work well now days if you follow the instructions.   I think I
have the problem solved at least for now but I'd like to hear comments
from folks familiar with the new block sealant products.  I've been looking
at that stuff anyway for our 97 Buick that is going to be replaced soon
with something new but it appears to have coughed up a head gasket and
I want to get it running so I can at least drive it to the junk yard.

K&N makes two products that are some sort of epoxy and one of them has 
"space age fibers"
in it.  I'm not inclined toward fibers of any sort, space age or not.
I know a lot of folks that are in the auto business from used car dealers to
mechanics to folks that work in parts houses and everyone is telling me to
use "Blue Devil".   If I find something that works on the Buick
I'll run a bottle of it through the truck too just for insurance. 
Apparently most
of these new products require you to drain and flush the system, fill with 
water
and the stuff, run the engine idle for a while, cut it of and let it sit for 
24 hours.
Then drain and refill.  That might be drain and let it sit for 24 hours. 
I'm not sure.
I’m not real sure about the "blue devil" product because it's a clear liquid 
and I wonder
if it's not just "water glass" (sodium silicate?).

Charlie
-----Original Message----- 
From: Mike
Sent: Saturday, August 29, 2015 3:52 PM
To: Antique tractor email discussion group
Subject: Re: [AT] HELP I'm stumped. truck problems, overheating

Charlie, I'm not a fan of coolant leak sealers, I prefer, as I'm sure
you you, to fix the problem correctly. However, when my daughter's jeep
started leaking coolant, in multiple places,  I used a product call
K-seal. It's not cheap, about $15 a bottle, but damned if it didn't work
like a charm.  If it is an air bubble, take your truck and jack it up as
high as you can on the coolant reservoir side and let it run for a bit.
The air will work it's way out of the system.

Mike M


On 8/29/2015 3:25 PM, charlie hill wrote:
> Ok guys, my 06 GMC 5.3 liter engine started
> overheating when first started up.  It would get up
> to about 220 or 230 degrees.  I could turn the heater
> on and get NO hot air flow.  Then all of a sudden
> it would start to cool and the heater would blow hot air.
> OK easy, bad thermostat.
>
> I go and get a new t-stat and put it in.  Same problem except
> worse.  Now it gets up close to 250 before it starts to cool down.
> I took the old thermostat in the house and put it in a pot of water on
> the stove with a cooking thermometer in it.  It opens and closes as it
> should.
>
> Anyone got an idea what is going on?  For those not familiar with
> the 5.3 GM engines the t-stat is not in the intake like GM motors of
> old. It's in the front of the water pump housing so it should not be
> prone to having an airlock at the thermostat.   I see no sign
> of bubbling in the coolant.  I'm not loosing an appreciable amount of
> coolant and there is no sign of coolant it the water or out the exhaust.
> I did however have to add some coolant a few weeks ago which is unusual
> and I have smelled an odor that smells like a coolant leak.  It's the same
> odor you smell in the cab when a heater core is leaking.  But I haven't
> found
> any sign of a leak anywhere.
>
> Right now I'm sitting at home with both of my vehicles not running.  I 
> need
> answers quick.
>
> Thanks
>
> Charlie
>
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