[AT] Grounding

[Richard Fink Sr]

I know what you are saying about the rust. i had a 94 that was scraped 
because of body and frame rust.
R Fink
PA



On 10/23/2014 12:19 PM, Joe Hazewinkel wrote:
> I'm sure it doesn't help that my truck is almost 18 years old, and I live in a winter climate that uses lots of salt.  The underside of the truck is pretty rusty.  I had hoped it would last forever, but after crawling around underneath it this past weekend, I'm having my doubts.  I'm convinced that it will fail structurally before mechanically.  It's a 1997 F250 with 320,000 miles on it.
>
> Enjoy, Joe
>
> Sent via mobile device
>
> On Oct 23, 2014, at 12:03 PM, Richard Fink Sr <rfinksr at verizon.net> wrote:
>
> Doug is right and what he says is true ford forgot that there truck may
> last longer than the payment book. I have had ford for many years and
> found that when the first problem comes up with electrical system do as
> farmer says put on grounds. from battery to engine and from battery to
> frame. It cures many problems we don,t even know we had.But i bet it
> will cure Joes problem.
> R Fink
> PA
>
>
>
>
>> On 10/23/2014 11:28 AM, Doug Tallman wrote:
>> Seems like Ford has some strange grounding issues. I've seen strange
>> performance issues such as hiccups, surges and erratic shifts cured by
>> adding ground straps. If you ground to the frame, make sure you clean
>> all the other grounds and I'd probably add a ground from the battery
>> ground wire at the block to the frame also. Doug T
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Joe Hazewinkel wrote:
>>> Greg, mine does have the seven pin connector.  My truck is a diesel with two batteries, do you think it matters which battery I hook the ground to?
>>>
>>> I figured Ford would ground to the battery, but no such luck. I'm going to have to look up a wiring diagram on-line and see if I can find anything.
>>>
>>> Enjoy, Joe
>>>
>>> Sent via mobile device
>>>
>>> On Oct 23, 2014, at 9:54 AM, Easley, Greg <EasleyG at health.missouri.edu> wrote:
>>>
>>> #10 stranded copper wire all the way back to the truck battery is a good solution.
>>> Replacing the 6-pin round connectors with the 7-pin RV type helps too.
>>>
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com [mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com] On Behalf Of Henry Miller
>>> Sent: Wednesday, October 22, 2014 9:46 PM
>>> To: Antique tractor email discussion group; jahaze at aol.com
>>> Subject: Re: [AT] Grounding
>>>
>>> It shouldn't harm anything, and might fix some other unexplained problem as well.
>>>
>>> Trailers brakes take a lot of power, if you tested with just a voltmeter, then I'd worry that the power line might not be able to supply full voltage under load.
>>>
>>>
>>>> On October 22, 2014 7:57:37 PM CDT, jahaze at aol.com wrote:
>>>> To follow up on my trailer brake problem, I have been able to determine
>>>> that I have plenty of voltage to the brake prong on the plug when I
>>>> ground it to the truck, and a drop in voltage when I ground it to the
>>>> ground prong.  My guess is that I have a weak ground connection on the
>>>> truck.
>>>>
>>>> I tried to chase the ground wire through the truck wiring harness, but
>>>> never did figure out where it was connected. What I'm thinking about
>>>> doing is putting a jumper from the plug ground wire to the frame in the
>>>> back of the truck to make a better connection.
>>>>
>>>> Is there any reason this won't work? Or does the ground wire have to be
>>>> connected to another part of the truck?
>>>>
>>>> Enjoy, Joe
>>>>
>>>> Sent from my iPad
>>>>
>>>>
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