[AT] Grounding

[charlie hill]

Joe I read this after my "alternative" reply.  If you have
that much chassis rust you'd probably be better off to
run an insulated ground cable like the others have suggested
and after you make the connections seal the ends with heat
shrink tube or something.

Charlie

-----Original Message----- 
From: Joe Hazewinkel
Sent: Thursday, October 23, 2014 12:19 PM
To: Antique tractor email discussion group
Subject: Re: [AT] Grounding

I'm sure it doesn't help that my truck is almost 18 years old, and I live in 
a winter climate that uses lots of salt.  The underside of the truck is 
pretty rusty.  I had hoped it would last forever, but after crawling around 
underneath it this past weekend, I'm having my doubts.  I'm convinced that 
it will fail structurally before mechanically.  It's a 1997 F250 with 
320,000 miles on it.

Enjoy, Joe

Sent via mobile device

On Oct 23, 2014, at 12:03 PM, Richard Fink Sr <rfinksr at verizon.net> wrote:

Doug is right and what he says is true ford forgot that there truck may
last longer than the payment book. I have had ford for many years and
found that when the first problem comes up with electrical system do as
farmer says put on grounds. from battery to engine and from battery to
frame. It cures many problems we don,t even know we had.But i bet it
will cure Joes problem.
R Fink
PA




> On 10/23/2014 11:28 AM, Doug Tallman wrote:
> Seems like Ford has some strange grounding issues. I've seen strange
> performance issues such as hiccups, surges and erratic shifts cured by
> adding ground straps. If you ground to the frame, make sure you clean
> all the other grounds and I'd probably add a ground from the battery
> ground wire at the block to the frame also. Doug T
>
>
>
>
> Joe Hazewinkel wrote:
>> Greg, mine does have the seven pin connector.  My truck is a diesel with 
>> two batteries, do you think it matters which battery I hook the ground 
>> to?
>>
>> I figured Ford would ground to the battery, but no such luck. I'm going 
>> to have to look up a wiring diagram on-line and see if I can find 
>> anything.
>>
>> Enjoy, Joe
>>
>> Sent via mobile device
>>
>> On Oct 23, 2014, at 9:54 AM, Easley, Greg <EasleyG at health.missouri.edu> 
>> wrote:
>>
>> #10 stranded copper wire all the way back to the truck battery is a good 
>> solution.
>> Replacing the 6-pin round connectors with the 7-pin RV type helps too.
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com 
>> [mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com] On Behalf Of Henry Miller
>> Sent: Wednesday, October 22, 2014 9:46 PM
>> To: Antique tractor email discussion group; jahaze at aol.com
>> Subject: Re: [AT] Grounding
>>
>> It shouldn't harm anything, and might fix some other unexplained problem 
>> as well.
>>
>> Trailers brakes take a lot of power, if you tested with just a voltmeter, 
>> then I'd worry that the power line might not be able to supply full 
>> voltage under load.
>>
>>
>>> On October 22, 2014 7:57:37 PM CDT, jahaze at aol.com wrote:
>>> To follow up on my trailer brake problem, I have been able to determine
>>> that I have plenty of voltage to the brake prong on the plug when I
>>> ground it to the truck, and a drop in voltage when I ground it to the
>>> ground prong.  My guess is that I have a weak ground connection on the
>>> truck.
>>>
>>> I tried to chase the ground wire through the truck wiring harness, but
>>> never did figure out where it was connected. What I'm thinking about
>>> doing is putting a jumper from the plug ground wire to the frame in the
>>> back of the truck to make a better connection.
>>>
>>> Is there any reason this won't work? Or does the ground wire have to be
>>> connected to another part of the truck?
>>>
>>> Enjoy, Joe
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPad
>>>
>>>
>>
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