[AT] here I go again

jtchall at nc.rr.com jtchall at nc.rr.com
Mon Jul 21 20:13:09 PDT 2014


Ask away if you need help on it. We've probably worked on more of the offset 
series Farmall than everything else combined. Never seen but a handful with 
the sliding drawbar, I think they used them pulling a disc harrow?  I can't 
tell you what the cultivator model is, Al Jones or my dad could. Unless you 
broke something, you just went to the dealer and said hey I need one of 
_____ and they just grabbed them from the bin. At the dealer dad worked for, 
they kept the cuffs and wedge bolts in arms length of the counter so they 
didn't have to walk so much---that’s how many they sold. Those were the only 
parts I can remember that were intentionally placed out of order in the 
parts bin other than items that were kept on display shelves.

One thing to look for is to see if a water pump was added. Most around here 
had this done. I think they used the one off a 100, but don't hold me to it. 
This would also mean you have a different belt (obviously).

Walk up beside each rear wheel and try to rock the tractor sideways. If it 
rocks more than tire deflection you have a mess. The inside bearing gets 
loose and will spin on the shaft and in the final drive housing. Its so 
costly everyone here has been rigging repairs to tighten them up for 
decades. Depending on how bad it is depends on what you can do to fix it. It 
doesn't have to be perfect to work---especially when you price fixing it 
correctly.

When you turn the steering wheel, does the arm the tie rods hook to raise up 
and down? Those steering boxes can get expensive as well. If its tight and 
leaking grease from under the bottom bad, you can just fill it full of 
bearing grease until you have time to tear it down, not a 5 minute job.

If brakes are bad they aren't too bad to change. The right side can be 
changed without removing the operators platform if you make a tool to pull 
the seal and you don’t' have arms so big you can't reach inside the axle 
tube.  We've always pulled them this way, but have learned several tricks 
and made tools to do so.

Use Hy-tran in the hydraulics, not 30w like on an M. If you change it there 
is a metal strainer inside the resevoir. Look on the left side and you'll 
see a square about 2-3 inches held on with 4 bolts. You will need a new 
gasket. If memory serves me correct, let the hydraulics all the way down and 
pull the big filler plug on the left. Fill it full. If you think you have 
overfilled it you can operate the hydraulics a couple times with the cap off 
and it will push out the excess fluid.

There should be a large flat head screw in the side of the fan. Position the 
screw horizontal, take it out and squirt some  oil in it. Let the excess run 
out before you put the screw back in. If the seal is bad, all the oil will 
run out, but at least you tried!

John Hall


-----Original Message----- 
From: Ron Cook
Sent: Monday, July 21, 2014 2:22 AM
To: Antique tractor email discussion group
Subject: Re: [AT] here I go again

Thanks for the information, John.  This is my second Farmall.  The other
is a 1566.  A couple of extremes, you might say.  Until this A, my small
Farmall experience has been with an H.  I won't be worrying much about
correct police.  This tractor is to be my sweetcorn and potato
cultivating/hilling machine next year.  It has to work or it can't
stay.  New sweeps, a couple shanks, and the rear gang and it is ready.
The battery box, rear light, fuse holder, wiring harness and a repaint
can come as they will.  It really is in pretty nice shape.  I will need
to pick up some manuals so I can operate and repair the thing properly.
I do not even know what model the cultivator is.  It looks as if it has
always been on the tractor.  It has a swinging drawbar that shows very
little use, so I imagine it spent most of its life with that off and the
rear cultivator gang on.  I don't think they can both be there at the
same time, but I am not entirely sure.

The canning factory that I sprayed sweetcorn for had a 140.  I never
operated it, of course, but I thought it looked like a pretty good
machine.  They only used it for mowing their grounds.  It had a Woods
belly mower.

Ron Cook
Salix, IA
On 7/20/2014 2:27 PM, jtchall at nc.rr.com wrote:
> If you need parts, look to the Southeast. Agri-supply should have
> aftermarket shanks, cuffs and wedgebolts.  Anything else you need should 
> be
> able to come from a salvage yard. I recommend Fitts in Cascade, Va, and
> Greenes in eastern N.C.  Since those tractors are still in high demand for
> gardening here, the prices of some of the cultivator and fertilizer
> distributor parts can be  expensive. A lot of parts are being reproduced 
> but
> may be more for function than accuracy---bear this in mind if you are 
> trying
> to please the correct police. If you get in a jam on used parts, send me 
> an
> off-list email and I can put you on to 3 "local" shops that part these
> tractors out and carry aftermarket parts.
>
> By the way, the Super A is in my opinion the best of offset series. I've
> driven them all and the Super A's handle the best. We do have one with a
> deluxe seat upgrade that is nice.  Maybe I'm partial to these since it was
> the model I learned to drive on. I can't stand the jumbo steering wheels 
> or
> gear reduciton steering boxes on some of the 1xx series. Most folks around
> here love 140's, probably because so many came from the dealer 12 volt and
> with fast-hitch.
>
> John Hall
>
>
>

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