[AT] Most wore out tractor (long)

[Ken Knierim]

John,
   It's not a matter of "tolerate" as much as what it would take to replace
it. I'd love to find a better or less wore out tractor and send this one on
down the road but, well, it still runs most of the time and I can usually
bang it back into shape in a short while if it isn't. When your priority is
to mow the yard and not hit the trees, this "well broke in" tractor does
the job mostly. I'd love to have a nice ZTR mower that would leave the yard
pristine but that's just not in the budget. equipment was made to be
used... I got it (really tired) about 17 years back when I bought this
place and it's kept up with what it needed to do for my yard and sometimes
the neighbors' yards too. Hard to retire something that's working, and
well, when it decides it's time, I'll probably have to agree.

My Dad always said if one of our family gets rid of something, you probably
don't WANT it because it means we couldn't keep it going anymore. Might be
some truth to it, based on the few things we traded off over the years. I
think even the salvage guy would think he got "took" on a couple of them. :)

Ken in AZ


On Sun, Jun 16, 2013 at 11:42 AM, <jtchall at nc.rr.com> wrote:

> Dang Ken, I don't think a salvage yard would give you more than more than
> scrap iron price! You must really like that machine to tolerate all that.
>
> I've got a '26 Farmall Regular that’s pretty much shot. The block has been
> patched, it has barely enough compression to run, carb leaks, everything
> that is supposed to hold back oil leaks, and there is so much backlash in
> the rear end you can watch the driveshaft turn without the tractor ever
> moving when changing directions. At least the brakes are real good and the
> mag is hot.
>
> The most worn out piece of machinery we ever resurrected is my Deere 3300
> combine. We've put in over 30 bearings and bushings, not counting the
> rubber
> bushings on the chaffer/sieves/grain pan. Also have put on all the belts
> except 2, and one of them needs changing.
>
> John Hall
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ken Knierim
> Sent: Sunday, June 16, 2013 9:18 AM
> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
> Subject: [AT] Most wore out tractor (long)
>
> In an effort to get the list woke up, what's your most worn-out tractor...
> and do you still use it?
>
> Here's mine:
>     '49 (I think) 8N that I use as a mower tractor.
>
> "feature list"
>
> Tires: front. Mismatched castoffs; one is larger than the other. One holds
> air, the other gets aired up every time I use it. The leaking side leaves
> chunks of rubber all over the yard as big pieces flake off. cords are
> showing in several spots.
> Back. weather checked, mismatched. right side leaks down every 3 or 4
> months.
>
> Radiator.
>     Holds coolant. Looks like it was salvaged; it's all beat up and missing
> a lot of fins.
>
> Engine.
>    Starts and runs; valves and cylinder walls in bad shape. burns a LOT of
> oil. Usually about 2 quarts mowing my 1.2 acres. trails blue all over the
> yard. #4 cylinder scored really badly. #4 plug fouls regularly (so I burn
> the oil off with a torch and reinstall it); I run it until the oil pressure
> drops, then refill it with "recycled" (used) oil. Uses nearly as much oil
> as it does gas.
>    Block is cracked behind the starter and seeps coolant from time to time;
> looks like it was frozen. Front main seal slobbering oil profusely. Valve
> train (valve spring retainers) has fallen apart several times and requires
> complete rebuild (hammer it flat and reinstall). Water pump leaks
> occasionally depending on its mood. Oil in coolant from somewhere. I took
> the head off it to see what it would require for repairs, choked, held my
> nose and reinstalled the head about 7 years ago.
>     Exhaust manifold is cracked and gasket is broken on #4 making it noisy.
> Actually quite handy to know when the plug fouls so I can clean the plug.
>    Fan belt (which isn't the right width for the fan and engine pulleys)
> has been soaked in oil for years and slips easily. Generator replaced with
> alternator on homemade brackets; right tire steering link will bump into
> the alternator (if you hit uneven ground) and loosen the belt causing the
> fan to freewheel. workaround is to pry the alternator back into position
> and keep going. If you don't it'll boil over.
>     Carb works but the float sometimes sticks and leaks fuel. It has an
> inlet valve that I shut off to keep the carb from overflowing while it's
> parked.
>     Governor may be off. If you use full throttle settings the mower
> vibrates, rattles and chatters the tractor. use it a couple notches from
> full and everything seems happy.
>
> Transmission
>      I believe this unit has a faster reverse gear for running a loader;
> it's about as fast as third gear. The lift will pick up my finish flail
> mower as long as the oil is cool.
>
> 3-point height adjustment arm is stripped internally and doesn't adjust
> right. needs replacement.
>
> brakes? on an 8N? ha!
>
> steering wheel is covered in electrical tape; I don't know what's under it
> but I'm sure it's in sad shape. The front spindles, which normally clamp to
> the link going to the tie rod, have been arc welded in place.
>
> Electrical. It's been hacked up to put a 12 volt GM 3-wire alternator on
> it. (Probably the only reason it still starts.) Ammeter is falling apart
> internally and does not work. Occasionally the charge circuit will stop
> working (a couple years back it required charging every few weeks to keep
> the battery up) but it's "cured" itself again and working. I've also had it
> go a little high on voltage and boil the battery. Battery held in with
> baling wire as someone bent the tray to allow removal of the battery from
> the side. starter had to be replaced as coolant leaked into it (from the
> cracked block) and it rusted out and died. 12 volts had broken the bendix
> anyway so it was time.
>
> Overall, the tractor is in terrible shape but I keep it running (for the
> most part). If I tear it down to fix it right, I'll never get it back
> together because there will always be something else to fix.
>
> Anyone else got a tractor you know you should rebuild end to end but just
> can't get a round tuit?
>
> Ken in AZ
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