[AT] Most wore out tractor (long)

jtchall at nc.rr.com jtchall at nc.rr.com
Sun Jun 16 11:42:10 PDT 2013


Dang Ken, I don't think a salvage yard would give you more than more than 
scrap iron price! You must really like that machine to tolerate all that.

I've got a '26 Farmall Regular that’s pretty much shot. The block has been 
patched, it has barely enough compression to run, carb leaks, everything 
that is supposed to hold back oil leaks, and there is so much backlash in 
the rear end you can watch the driveshaft turn without the tractor ever 
moving when changing directions. At least the brakes are real good and the 
mag is hot.

The most worn out piece of machinery we ever resurrected is my Deere 3300 
combine. We've put in over 30 bearings and bushings, not counting the rubber 
bushings on the chaffer/sieves/grain pan. Also have put on all the belts 
except 2, and one of them needs changing.

John Hall


-----Original Message----- 
From: Ken Knierim
Sent: Sunday, June 16, 2013 9:18 AM
To: Antique tractor email discussion group
Subject: [AT] Most wore out tractor (long)

In an effort to get the list woke up, what's your most worn-out tractor...
and do you still use it?

Here's mine:
    '49 (I think) 8N that I use as a mower tractor.

"feature list"

Tires: front. Mismatched castoffs; one is larger than the other. One holds
air, the other gets aired up every time I use it. The leaking side leaves
chunks of rubber all over the yard as big pieces flake off. cords are
showing in several spots.
Back. weather checked, mismatched. right side leaks down every 3 or 4
months.

Radiator.
    Holds coolant. Looks like it was salvaged; it's all beat up and missing
a lot of fins.

Engine.
   Starts and runs; valves and cylinder walls in bad shape. burns a LOT of
oil. Usually about 2 quarts mowing my 1.2 acres. trails blue all over the
yard. #4 cylinder scored really badly. #4 plug fouls regularly (so I burn
the oil off with a torch and reinstall it); I run it until the oil pressure
drops, then refill it with "recycled" (used) oil. Uses nearly as much oil
as it does gas.
   Block is cracked behind the starter and seeps coolant from time to time;
looks like it was frozen. Front main seal slobbering oil profusely. Valve
train (valve spring retainers) has fallen apart several times and requires
complete rebuild (hammer it flat and reinstall). Water pump leaks
occasionally depending on its mood. Oil in coolant from somewhere. I took
the head off it to see what it would require for repairs, choked, held my
nose and reinstalled the head about 7 years ago.
    Exhaust manifold is cracked and gasket is broken on #4 making it noisy.
Actually quite handy to know when the plug fouls so I can clean the plug.
   Fan belt (which isn't the right width for the fan and engine pulleys)
has been soaked in oil for years and slips easily. Generator replaced with
alternator on homemade brackets; right tire steering link will bump into
the alternator (if you hit uneven ground) and loosen the belt causing the
fan to freewheel. workaround is to pry the alternator back into position
and keep going. If you don't it'll boil over.
    Carb works but the float sometimes sticks and leaks fuel. It has an
inlet valve that I shut off to keep the carb from overflowing while it's
parked.
    Governor may be off. If you use full throttle settings the mower
vibrates, rattles and chatters the tractor. use it a couple notches from
full and everything seems happy.

Transmission
     I believe this unit has a faster reverse gear for running a loader;
it's about as fast as third gear. The lift will pick up my finish flail
mower as long as the oil is cool.

3-point height adjustment arm is stripped internally and doesn't adjust
right. needs replacement.

brakes? on an 8N? ha!

steering wheel is covered in electrical tape; I don't know what's under it
but I'm sure it's in sad shape. The front spindles, which normally clamp to
the link going to the tie rod, have been arc welded in place.

Electrical. It's been hacked up to put a 12 volt GM 3-wire alternator on
it. (Probably the only reason it still starts.) Ammeter is falling apart
internally and does not work. Occasionally the charge circuit will stop
working (a couple years back it required charging every few weeks to keep
the battery up) but it's "cured" itself again and working. I've also had it
go a little high on voltage and boil the battery. Battery held in with
baling wire as someone bent the tray to allow removal of the battery from
the side. starter had to be replaced as coolant leaked into it (from the
cracked block) and it rusted out and died. 12 volts had broken the bendix
anyway so it was time.

Overall, the tractor is in terrible shape but I keep it running (for the
most part). If I tear it down to fix it right, I'll never get it back
together because there will always be something else to fix.

Anyone else got a tractor you know you should rebuild end to end but just
can't get a round tuit?

Ken in AZ
_______________________________________________
AT mailing list
http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at 





More information about the AT mailing list