[AT] tin roof repair

[jtchall at nc.rr.com]

Picked up some more screws at a large building supply store today. Surprised 
none of the stores here carry large buckets or huge boxes. I even checked 
Fastenall, 250 was the largest package they sell. The big box stores only 
sell them in boxes of 100. We've been using them for several years with good 
luck screwing into wood. I've yet to find any of these that have worked 
loose. One thing about it, these things beat the heck out of driving nails 
thru tin!

John

-----Original Message----- 
From: Alan Nadeau
Sent: Friday, July 05, 2013 10:06 AM
To: Antique tractor email discussion group
Subject: Re: [AT] tin roof repair


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <jtchall at nc.rr.com>
To: "Antique tractor email discussion group" <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Sent: Friday, July 05, 2013 7:57 AM
Subject: Re: [AT] tin roof repair


>
> I had to swing by a building supply store yesterday
> anyway,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,  Certainly replacing nails with
> screws will help future leaks from developing, I've got to find a supplier
> for the
> screws in bulk,at $.10 each this gets to be real pricey.>
>

Around here any building supply place has the screws either in bulk or a box
holding several pounds.  Correct installation has the screws installed in
the flat areas, NOT on top of the ribs.  Screws should be next to the ribs.
Starting with the rib that overlaps the previous sheet put a screw about 1"
out on the flat and put one in roughly the same position next to each rib.
At the last rib on a given sheet, the one that will be under the next sheet,
put a screw next to that rib as well.   Hard to explain, easy to
demonstrate.

Run the screws in until the rubber washer just starts to squish out a
little.  If you go too far the rubber will get forced out from under the
sealing washer and will be a leaker.

When replacing nails with screws you pretty much have to go where the nails
already were.  If you are forced to screw into the ribs be very careful not
to over drive the screws.  If run down too far they will suck the top of the
rib down and split the tin.  That makes for a nice little funnel to collect
water and the split allows it to run inside.   If the nail holes are
wallowed out from the tin moving around the nails there are oversize screws
available to take up the slack.  If you ask the right place for "oversized
stitch screws" they will know what you want.  If they look at you like you
had two heads you didn't ask the right place.

I haven't dealt with them in years but The Woodward Co., in Albany, NY used
to be my goto supplier for anything I couldn't buy local.  Nice folks to
deal with, even on small orders.  If ordering over the phone be sure they
know you are using them for wood framing.  Screws used in metal buildings
have a drill point and fine threads and don't hold well in wood.

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