[AT] tin roof repair

Cecil R Bearden crbearden at copper.net
Sat Jul 6 05:24:42 PDT 2013


If you have a metal bldg supply company around, the screws are about 
half price as the hdwe stores.  I keep both metal and wood screws around 
here all the time.   With the new cordless impact drills, A hammer is 
only used for working on tractors...

Cecil in oKla


On 7/5/2013 4:12 PM, jtchall at nc.rr.com wrote:
> Picked up some more screws at a large building supply store today. Surprised
> none of the stores here carry large buckets or huge boxes. I even checked
> Fastenall, 250 was the largest package they sell. The big box stores only
> sell them in boxes of 100. We've been using them for several years with good
> luck screwing into wood. I've yet to find any of these that have worked
> loose. One thing about it, these things beat the heck out of driving nails
> thru tin!
>
> John
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Alan Nadeau
> Sent: Friday, July 05, 2013 10:06 AM
> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
> Subject: Re: [AT] tin roof repair
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <jtchall at nc.rr.com>
> To: "Antique tractor email discussion group" <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> Sent: Friday, July 05, 2013 7:57 AM
> Subject: Re: [AT] tin roof repair
>
>
>> I had to swing by a building supply store yesterday
>> anyway,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,  Certainly replacing nails with
>> screws will help future leaks from developing, I've got to find a supplier
>> for the
>> screws in bulk,at $.10 each this gets to be real pricey.>
>>
> Around here any building supply place has the screws either in bulk or a box
> holding several pounds.  Correct installation has the screws installed in
> the flat areas, NOT on top of the ribs.  Screws should be next to the ribs.
> Starting with the rib that overlaps the previous sheet put a screw about 1"
> out on the flat and put one in roughly the same position next to each rib.
> At the last rib on a given sheet, the one that will be under the next sheet,
> put a screw next to that rib as well.   Hard to explain, easy to
> demonstrate.
>
> Run the screws in until the rubber washer just starts to squish out a
> little.  If you go too far the rubber will get forced out from under the
> sealing washer and will be a leaker.
>
> When replacing nails with screws you pretty much have to go where the nails
> already were.  If you are forced to screw into the ribs be very careful not
> to over drive the screws.  If run down too far they will suck the top of the
> rib down and split the tin.  That makes for a nice little funnel to collect
> water and the split allows it to run inside.   If the nail holes are
> wallowed out from the tin moving around the nails there are oversize screws
> available to take up the slack.  If you ask the right place for "oversized
> stitch screws" they will know what you want.  If they look at you like you
> had two heads you didn't ask the right place.
>
> I haven't dealt with them in years but The Woodward Co., in Albany, NY used
> to be my goto supplier for anything I couldn't buy local.  Nice folks to
> deal with, even on small orders.  If ordering over the phone be sure they
> know you are using them for wood framing.  Screws used in metal buildings
> have a drill point and fine threads and don't hold well in wood.
>
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