[Farmall] drawbar bolts

[E. John Puckett]

John, the engine serial is on a flat boss just above the oil filler, and 
the casting date code is just below the carb. if I remember correctly.  
the crack at that ear seems to have been a design flaw in the block, 
that was improved with the later revisions.  I am currently working on 
one that belongs to our local Lions club that they use to maintain part 
of their grounds.  it had the ear completely broken off.  they did not 
want to replace the engine, so I had the ear welded at a machine shop 
then got as a set of the braces you are referring to.  They appear to do 
a good job of relieving the stress on that ear.   this one I think may 
have been rolled, plus with different people driving it at times, it did 
not have the most caring operators
http://home.centurytel.net/ejpuckett/FarmallCub%202012/Lions%20cub%202.jpg
   There are a couple versions of the front braces out there, here is 
one of them that I got for the Lions club cub since they did not want to 
replace the engine.
http://home.centurytel.net/ejpuckett/Farmallcub%202010/engine%20brace%20right.jpg
There is a similar one on the left side.
I don't think jamming a loader into a pile of snow, etc. is that hard on 
the front end, since the way both the Ih and Wagner loader mount 
transfers the horizontal shock to the rear part of the tractor.  Having 
the loader raised and running over something or getting a wheel in a 
hole is another story though.  I do have a Wagner WM1 pipe loader on one 
of my cubs which is very ahndy since I cannot lift things anymore.  I am 
very careful with it, and have put a set of the braces on the engine, 
and also have added a brace to the front spindles.
http://home.centurytel.net/ejpuckett/Farmallcub%202011/axle%20brace%201.jpg
and intend to add a set of gussets as soon as the shop gets them cut for me.

I am not crazy about the graphite block throwout bearing, but my 
original lasted 45 years, so I guess that is not too bad.  Trick to 
keeping them going is to make sure they get greased, if you buy 
aftermarket ones soak them in oil a few days before installing (IH ones 
are already soaked), and keep the pressure plate fingers adjusted 
evenly, not to mention not riding the clutch.  VW, and a few other 
manufacuteres used the same setup.  didn't the B, and A also have the 
same thing, maybe the Super A also?




On 4/13/2013 10:55 PM, jtchall at nc.rr.com wrote:
> Now I learned something new. All the broken blocks I've seen were on older
> models. I never remember seeing a later model with a repaired or leaking
> block. The one in dads Cub is a replacement engine he had welded up, we kept
> the old engine for parts, its broken too. One of these days I'll try to get
> the block number off of each as well as the serial number--I think they have
> a one? Will be interesting to see what revision level block those are. I
> remember seeing another Cub with a brace, very similar to the one somebody
> makes and markets on the internet. Pretty certain I have seen a couple more
> that were cracked and in need of welding. Wonder what caused them to break,
> dropping in a hole or ditch too hard with the front end? Maybe towing the
> tractor with a chain around the front axle and snatching the chain---I can
> see that bad idea breaking anything!
>
>