[AT] potato planting

[Herb Metz]

Some of our garden rows are on 38" centers.  This works great for laying 3" 
silt fence between rows; very few weeds, reduced ground moisture 
evaporation, don't get shoes all muddy after a rain, etc. Silt fence is used 
extensively for prevention of silt runoff from construction sites, so should 
be available locally.  Most silt fencing is removed couple years(?) after 
construction is completed and grass, etc is growing and no longer a need for 
the silt fence; sometimes one can get that at no cost.  We have gone to 5' 
centers for tomatoes (better air circulation); overlap silt fence 12", works 
great. Herb

-----Original Message----- 
From: Dan Folske
Sent: Wednesday, April 17, 2013 10:10 PM
To: Antique tractor email discussion group
Subject: Re: [AT] potato planting

That's the method I use but last year I upgraded to using a 4 row corn
planter to lay out the rows so I could use the cultivator mounted on an
Oliver 70.
I do remember mounting a piece of stove pipe on a plow and riding on the
plow to drop the potatoes into the furrow which would then be covered by the
back bottom

-----Original Message----- 
From: Ralph Goff
Sent: Wednesday, April 17, 2013 9:36 AM
To: Antique tractor email discussion group
Subject: Re: [AT] potato planting

On 4/16/2013 4:37 AM, charlie hill wrote:
> We always planted potatoes on top of the row with the
> top of it knocked down but we planted them on 48" rows (middle to middle)
> so that gave us plenty of ability to bed them up plus we were working in
> sandy loam that was good and loose.
>
> Charlie
>
>
I wonder if I am the only one using the old "shovel method" of planting
potatos? I set up a line of baler twine and two sticks as a guide. Walk
along with a bucket of seed and shovel. Stick shovel in ground and open
the soil just enough to drop in the seed. Remove shovel, pack with size
13 boot and move one step further and repeat.
I admit it is a little labour intensive but I don't plant the whole
patch in one day. I like the staggered planting method. Usually try to
get a row in by the first of May although it won't happen this year.
Then plant another row or two a week later . Sometimes finishing up the
end of May.  Very often the later seeded ones turn out better but at
least I have a few early ones to eat in August. Plus, if the early
plants get frozen by a late frost I still have time to replant.
Planting is no big deal but I find hilling by hand is a workout. By day
its the heat. In the cool of the evening its the mosquitos.
Oh well, right now that all looks pretty good compared to looking out
the window at our snowbanks that refuse to melt.

Ralph in Sask.

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