[AT] Now shims n stuff

Tom tmartin at xtra.co.nz
Sun Apr 7 03:10:18 PDT 2013


Ya most welcome, Cecil. :-)
My father instilled in me at an early age, to bring lateral thinking into play, 
when dealing with things mechanical. Has stood me in good stead over the years.
He also worked on Model Ts when they were being sold new. Never had a good 
opinion of them. My grandfather at the time had a garage with farmer clients with rather
more exotic brands of vehicles, Model Ts were rather mundane engineering-wise by
comparison...

Talking of shims, spent part of today aligning a 100 hp electric motor to a new mill 
I installed for dried blood at a meat works down the way. The original mounting 
ensured that shims were required in every direction to align the coupling to my
satisfaction. Still it will be all go for tomorrow...
My shower water tonight would have made good liquid fertilizer! :-)

Tom


--- On Sun, 7/4/13, Cecil R Bearden <crbearden at copper.net> wrote:

From: Cecil R Bearden <crbearden at copper.net>
Subject: Re: [AT] MF 135
To: "Antique tractor email discussion group" <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Date: Sunday, 7, April, 2013, 1:04 PM

Charlie:
Tom made a suggestion that I had not thought of in my 50+ years of 
engine work.  Shim the rods with the shaft out of the block.   It is 
just too simple, no wonder I never did it...   I even apprenticed under 
an old old mechanic who started out in the T model days...  He never 
suggested that method........
I still learn something every day from this group....

Cecil in oKla


On 4/6/2013 6:59 PM, charlie hill wrote:
> Dudley,  this is a question more than a suggestion because I just don't know
> much
> about  those engines.  I'm wondering if you could use plasti-gauge, tighten
> it down
> once on the plasti-gage, pull it back apart to see how much shim you need,
> put in the
> correct shims the first time and be done with it?
>
> Charlie
>
>
> ----Original Message-----
> From: Tom
> Sent: Saturday, April 06, 2013 7:46 PM
> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
> Subject: Re: [AT] MF 135
>
> Can I ask why you didn't shim the rods to the crank while it was out?
>
> Tom
>
> --- On Sat, 6/4/13, drupert at seanet.com <drupert at seanet.com> wrote:
>
>
> I too find shims guesswork and a pain.  I am currently in the process of
> overhauling a 1952 JD Model B engine.  The crank has been reworked and is
> back in and the Block has been bored 90 thousands. The Rods have been
> checked, new Bushings installed and are now ready to be attach to the
> Crank.  However, the Rod Bearings(Babbitt) are adjusted via shims and
> therein is my excuse for procrastination.  I hate having to reach in the
> small access hole to tighten a Rod only to learn that I have to loosen it
> to add/substract shims and then drop some/all of the shims from one side
> of the Rod into the bottom of the engine only to not be able to reach
> under the Crank to retrieve all of those tiny brass shims.
>
>
> Dudley
>
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