[AT] Ford 5000 Hydraulic lift cylinder

charlie hill charliehill at embarqmail.com
Wed May 2 06:33:40 PDT 2012


Cecil,  that sounds like the best plan to me!  It'll get you back to work. 
Then if you can fix the old unit later when you
have time maybe you can recover most of your money.  Good luck with it.

Charlie

-----Original Message----- 
From: Cecil R Bearden
Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2012 8:07 AM
To: Antique tractor email discussion group
Subject: Re: [AT] Ford 5000 Hydraulic lift cylinder

I might be able to make a tap or find one, then build up the broken part
with spray metal, then bore and tap it.  I have done this with cast iron
before, but the spray metal powder is now as high as gold!!!   I found a
complete top deck for $650, I think I will just chicken out and buy
it.   I have about 70 acres of sweet clover that is needing cut and a
lot of other things that are pressing right now, and just do not have
the time.  This was a tractor I was trying to sell....
Cecil in oKla



On 5/2/2012 5:55 AM, charlie hill wrote:
> Cecil,  there is a place about an hour from here that rebuilds hydraulics
> for a living.
> That is all they do.  I wonder if they would work on an oddball piece like
> yours
> and if there is a similar place anywhere near you?
>
> Charlie
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Steve W.
> Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2012 5:45 AM
> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
> Subject: Re: [AT] Ford 5000 Hydraulic lift cylinder
>
> Cecil R Bearden wrote:
>> I would do that, but there is only 3/16 in. metal from the threads to
>> one side of the mounting boss.  There is a control valve bore behind it
>> 1/2 in deep.  It is an oddball thread, and the sleeve that threads into
>> it is expensive.  There is not a lot of room to do much and the top of
>> the mounting boss must be within 0.010 of what is was before to work
>> right....
>>
>> Really just a very poor design.  And these guys did not have Autocad to
>> blame the stupidity on!!!
>>
>> Cecil in Okla
>>
> Sounds like it would be a challenge. Could still be done though. I have
> welded up cylinder heads and blocks with similar tolerances.
> Not fun but it could be done. Probably best to use a TIG. Might need to
> cut the metal back then weld it up and machine it back, sort of the way
> you would do a crankshaft.
>
>
>

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