[AT] Easier to Start?

Dean VP deanvp at att.net
Sat Jul 21 09:31:14 PDT 2012 

Tyler,

The ones I listed are all for the water. I don't know if they can be used in the oil.
But..... if the water is warm in the tractor the oil will be too.  I don't have a web
site(s) to refer you to for oil heaters. 

Dean VP
Snohomish, WA

"Do not go where the path may lead; go instead where there is no path and leave a trail."
- Ralph Waldo Emerson

-----Original Message-----
From: at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com [mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com]
On Behalf Of Tyler Juranek
Sent: Saturday, July 21, 2012 7:38 AM
To: Antique tractor email discussion group
Subject: Re: [AT] Easier to Start?

Hi Dean,
Hmm. I am confused about the heaters.
They all look like they are for the radiator.
Do they heat oil as well?
Tyler

On 7/20/12, Dean VP <deanvp at att.net> wrote:
> Tyler,
>
> Yes, you can get an oil heater or a water heater. They would go in 
> their respective drain plugs.  Yes, you hook the power cord up until 
> the fluid is warm enough to start the tractor and then disconnect.  
> The trick is to get one compatible with the JD A.
>
> Here are some example block heaters:
>
> http://www.waltstractors.com/acatalog/Block_Heater_for_John_Deere.html
>
> http://www.oldjdforyou.com/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Co
> de=oldjd4u&Product_C
> ode=FS103
>
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brand-New-Engine-Block-Heater-3-4NPT-/38041026
> 1660#vi-content
>
>
>
> Dean VP
> Snohomish, WA
>
> "Do not go where the path may lead; go instead where there is no path 
> and leave a trail."
> - Ralph Waldo Emerson
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
> [mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com]
> On Behalf Of Tyler Juranek
> Sent: Friday, July 20, 2012 2:30 PM
> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
> Subject: Re: [AT] Easier to Start?
>
> Hi Dean,
> Sorry to bother with all these questions, but my guess is that the 
> heater goes into the oil drain plug, and that you can remove the 
> electrical cord after getting the engine going, so you can drive the 
> tractor around?
> Thanks,
> Tyler
>
> On 7/20/12, Dean VP <deanvp at att.net> wrote:
>> Tyler,
>>
>> They run on 120V standard household service. But you need to find one 
>> designed to be used on the JD A so it can be left in while running.
>> Keep in mind that heating anything with 120V for a long period of 
>> time can get expensive. Just plug it in an hour or so before you want 
>> to run the tractor.  I've seen these heat plugs designed for JD 
>> tractors but right now I don't recall who sells them. Try Steiner 
>> Tractor Parts or Davenport Tractor parts.
>>
>> Dean VP
>> Snohomish, WA
>>
>> "Do not go where the path may lead; go instead where there is no path 
>> and leave a trail."
>> - Ralph Waldo Emerson
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
>> [mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com]
>> On Behalf Of Tyler Juranek
>> Sent: Friday, July 20, 2012 9:30 AM
>> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
>> Subject: Re: [AT] Easier to Start?
>>
>> Hi Dean,
>> Does this run on electricity?
>> If I need to start it, do I remove the heater and switch back to the 
>> plug?
>> Thanks,
>> Tyler
>>
>> On 7/20/12, Dean VP <deanvp at att.net> wrote:
>>> Tyler,
>>>
>>> Find an  oil heater than can be used in place of the oil drain plug.
>>>
>>> Dean VP
>>> Snohomish, WA
>>>
>>> "Do not go where the path may lead; go instead where there is no 
>>> path and leave a trail."
>>> - Ralph Waldo Emerson
>>>
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
>>> [mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com]
>>> On Behalf Of Tyler Juranek
>>> Sent: Friday, July 20, 2012 8:44 AM
>>> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
>>> Subject: Re: [AT] Easier to Start?
>>>
>>> Hi,
>>> I have a 36 JD A.
>>> I am kinda concerned about it this winter. Since it is so dry now, I 
>>> have a feeling that winter will be verry harsh.
>>> I have antifreeze in the radiator along with water, but the oil will 
>>> be a different story, since it'll be pretty stiff.
>>> I don't know if I'll have to start it this winter, but how do I get 
>>> the oil to free itself up, so it's not so stiff?
>>> On my dad's 50, I don't think we will have to worry about it to 
>>> much, since it has electric start.
>>> Take Care,
>>> Tyler
>>>
>>> On 7/19/12, Dean VP <deanvp at att.net> wrote:
>>>> Tyler,
>>>>
>>>> Yes, JD provided rather unique short stubs that would fit into the 
>>>> center of the flywheel at one end and then the other end was made 
>>>> to allow the steering wheel to be attached so one could use the 
>>>> steering wheel off the tractor and the little stub to start an 
>>>> electric start tractor. In the very early electric start tractors, 
>>>> 6 volt batteries were used which were under rated to begin with and 
>>>> under any kind of adverse condition they would often fail to 
>>>> perform their starting duties. Battery technology has come a long 
>>>> ways since the late 30's and early 40's as well. On our farm and I 
>>>> suspect many others an old steering wheel was semi-permanently 
>>>> attached to these stubs which were unique for the older letter 
>>>> series and then changed in the late letter series and early numbered series.
>>>> The early
>>>> numbered series were all 12V start tractors and used two 6V 
>>>> batteries wired in series. The early letter series 6V electric 
>>>> start was very marginal and next to useless when the temps dropped 
>>>> below zero.  So hand starting and pulling the tractor with anything 
>>>> else that would start was usually employed. I don't recall starting 
>>>> problems with the early numbered series, in the early 50's  as long 
>>>> as the batteries were charged. That excludes the diesels. Block 
>>>> heaters were required for diesels in NW IA where winter time lows 
>>>> often got into to the -40 degrees F range in the 1940's and 1950's.
>>>> Block heaters even helped a lot for the gas tractors but were not 
>>>> utilized much in the
> early 40's.
>>>> Maybe it had to do with the fact that REA (Rural Electrification
>>>> Association) was in itself quite unreliable in the winter again in 
>>>> the late 30's early 40's.  I recall reading many a book by Kerosene 
>>>> lamp for a few years even after we had REA on the farm. It just 
>>>> wasn't reliable the first few years.
>>>>
>>>> Dean VP
>>>> Snohomish, WA
>>>>
>>>> "Do not go where the path may lead; go instead where there is no 
>>>> path and leave a trail."
>>>> - Ralph Waldo Emerson
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>> From: at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
>>>> [mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com]
>>>> On Behalf Of Tyler Juranek
>>>> Sent: Thursday, July 19, 2012 4:42 PM
>>>> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
>>>> Subject: Re: [AT] Easier to Start?
>>>>
>>>> Hi, interesting.
>>>> Wasn't there a way to crank the two cylinder Jd's with electric 
>>>> start as well?
>>>> If anyone knows how to do so, can you please explain?
>>>> Thanks,
>>>> Tyler
>>>>
>>>> On 7/19/12, Steve W. <swilliams268 at frontier.com> wrote:
>>>>> Mike Sloane wrote:
>>>>>> The old Farmall tractors don't care whether you use the crank or 
>>>>>> the starter motor. And it doesn't matter whether they have 
>>>>>> electric ignition or magneto. One advantage of those old Farmall 
>>>>>> gas engines is that they were very, very simple - nothing that 
>>>>>> you wouldn't recognize out of VoTech text book describing generic 
>>>>>> 4 cylinder in-line engines. There was no vacuum advance, nothing 
>>>>>> sophisticated at all. The smaller tractors came with a crank that 
>>>>>> sat in special clips in or on the operator platform, while the 
>>>>>> larger machines had other arrangements. The Cubs, and A/B/C's 
>>>>>> were very easy to crank, but I have never tried to crank an M or 
>>>>>> H. I think those might be more work. Incidentally, when I needed 
>>>>>> to turn the engine over on my Ford 2N, I discovered that the 
>>>>>> Farmall Cub hand crank fit perfectly.
>>>>>> The only "trick", as others have mentioned, is that you don't 
>>>>>> just spin the handle around. You engage the crank in the "down"
>>>>>> position, keep your thumb close to your index finger, and pull up 
>>>>>> smartly on the handle. Of course, it also requires that the gas 
>>>>>> be open, the ignition on, the throttle about half way, and maybe 
>>>>>> the choke closed (the first time only). 9 out of 10 times, the 
>>>>>> crank is the only way my
>>>>>> '48 Cub will
>>>> start.
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> My F-20 starts pretty well, so does the H. Not hard cranking 
>>>>> either one.
>>>>>
>>>>> --
>>>>> Steve W.
>>>>> _______________________________________________
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>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> --
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>>>
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>>
>> --
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>
>
> --
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