[Farmall] [AT] Easier to Start?

Gwinn, John J (GE Transportation) john.J.gwinn at ge.com
Thu Jul 19 06:25:02 PDT 2012


Ben,
I own and use a Super A.  About a year ago, I had the same starting difficulties which advanced gradually over a year or so.  I, too, investigated and, ultimately, replaced the carburetor...but the problem persisted.  What I found is that I needed a valve job.  The exhaust valves were eroded a good bit, the valve lifter rods were gummed in their sleeves and my mechanic found two radial cracks in two of the valve seats.  To diagnose all this, my mechanic disconnected the spark plug wires from the plugs and loosely placed them over the plug electrodes.  With the tractor running, he would lift the plug wires away from the plugs to interrupt them and listen carefully to the engine to detect changes in the firing.

What was happening is that the engine's compression was greatly reduced in two of the cylinders which resulted in weak intake suction.  With a replacement head and rejuvenated valve train, the engine is running smoothly, is easy to start and has a lot more power.  I now know to watch the exhaust for coolant leakage...watch the coolant reservoir for loss of fluid (head cracks)...listen closer to the sound of the engine to detect missing (loss of compression)...watch for prolonged cranking to start the engine (valves not seating/sealing).  A follow-up issue I had recently was that the valves needed adjustment due to the new head gasket compressing over the past year.

I'm a lot better Super A operator and mechanic after this adventure.  I hear other Farmall owners talk about how they like these machines because they seldom need to maintain them...that they run despite maintenance.  When I hear this, I remain quiet because I know how much better they run when maintained and the maintenance is fairly easy once you learn how to do it.
John

-----Original Message-----
From: farmall-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com [mailto:farmall-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com] On Behalf Of Ben Wagner
Sent: Thursday, July 19, 2012 8:51 AM
To: Antique tractor email discussion group; Farmall/IHC mailing list
Subject: Re: [Farmall] [AT] Easier to Start?

Charlie V., I did try your suggestion to pinpoint the problem.  The Super A did start much better, even though it didn't run well.  I think it was running rich, but I didn't want to destroy the settings which work well on my other A, so I reinstalled the old carb.

Interestingly, for those following this thread, the Super A still only runs evenly with 1/2 choke.  Even after the cleaned carburetor, it still 
only runs well with 1/2.   It doesn't smoke, has plenty of power, and 
consumes less fuel at that setting than any of my other tractors running with no choke.

I wonder if some trash is in the sediment bowl housing?  The only other option is junk in the air cleaner.  Those two options seems to me to be the only way to cause the problem.

Is there a way to remove the "steel wool" substance in the air cleaner so as to clean it well?  I'm assuming the bottom (inside the cup) with the radial lines comes out, but for some reason the bottom on my Super A doesn't want to budge.  Am I thinking correctly here? Does this model air cleaner come apart?

Thanks for the tip, Charlie!  I'll remember that one for future reference.

Ben W.


On 7/16/2012 12:47 PM, Charlie V wrote:
> Ben,
>
> ,Having read all of the good suggestions given so far, I will offer 
> one more.  If Mike Sloan's (Hi Mike) propane suggestion does not help, 
> how about "borrowing a carburetor from one of your other Farmall A's 
> and putting it on the problem one.  If the gas line is at a different 
> position on the borrowed carb, borrow the other gas line to go with 
> it.  The time investment will be small compared to what you have 
> already done.  That should tell you once and for all if the 1/2 choke 
> problem and the hard starting is carb caused.  After you prove that it 
> is, you would need to look to replace that carb with another (used 
> preferably), or get a good kit for yours, or find a clogged fuel 
> passage that has been missed so far..  If the problem is not carb 
> caused, you would at least not waste any more time going down that 
> road.
>
> Some might ask why mess up a good running tractor for one that runs 
> poorly.  It should not mess up the good running tractor for any longer 
> that the time needed to change the carb over, test run, and change it 
> back.
>
> Good luck,
>
> Charlie V.
>
>
>
>
> On Sun, Jul 15, 2012 at 9:03 PM, Ben Wagner <supera1948 at gmail.com> wrote:
>> Good Evening,
>>
>> It's been awhile since I have had to bring you an issue on my Farmall 
>> Super A.  It has always been hard to start, taking a long time of 
>> cranking (normally two periods of three seconds each) before it will 
>> begin to fire.  Lately, the electrical system has acted up, and I am 
>> trying to start it with a hand crank.  It's great exercise, but not 
>> the greatest use of my time.  It took a good 20 some turns with the 
>> hand crank to get it to start firing tonight.  I'm surprised my arm 
>> can still type!
>>
>> Is there any sort of "trick" some of you know of to convince a 
>> tractor to start easier with a hand crank?
>>
>> In case it is important, the Super A has a good magneto, D21 spark 
>> plugs, and a Zenith carb.  It also only runs well on half choke, and 
>> there are no adjustments on the Zenith beyond the idle mixture.  I 
>> know the impulse coupling works, unless I am mistaken.
>>
>> Thanks for your help.  I'm sure all of you have had the tractor that 
>> won't start well with a hand crank!
>>
>> Ben Wagner
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