[AT] Easier to Start?

[charlie hill]

Ben,  If you're having to run with half choke you're either getting air from 
somewhere you shouldn't or not getting the fuel you need.
The reason I told you to clean it again after you were sure it was clean is 
because I've been down that same road before.   It only takes an itty bitty 
little piece of whatever down in the passages of the carb to cause what you 
are experiencing.  The first time it happened to me a mechanic friend heard 
my tractor run and said "you've got trash in your carb"  I told him I had 
just cleaned it carefully.  He said " YOU'VE GOT TRASH IN YOUR CARB!"  I 
took his word for it and tore it back down.  I cleaned it again even more 
carefully and ran wire again into all the little passages.  I never saw a 
thing come out of it.  I put it back together and the tractor cranked and 
ran like a top.

Check for vacuum leaks in the intake too.

Charlie

-----Original Message----- 
From: Ben Wagner
Sent: Monday, July 16, 2012 8:50 AM
To: at at lists.antique-tractor.com
Subject: Re: [AT] Easier to Start?

Hi Charlie,

Thank you for your very detailed breakdown on cleaning my carb.  I
actually hesitate to tear back into it, since I have taken it apart
three times since the restoration in hopes of finding the elusive
problem.  I have eliminated most recently:

~fuel flow
~clogged/constricted main jet
~trash around the float needle/seat
~trash in the passages

If my carb is indeed clean, and assuming my air filter is working
properly, what other problems might I have to cause the engine to only
run on half choke?

On another note, on my 1945 A, I have a "needle valve main jet
adjustment" screw that allows me to adjust the mixture.  It screws into
the main jet.  In the Super A parts book, the screw is listed, but it is
listed as only available on kerosine/distillate engines. I'm assuming,
then, that it is not needed for a gasoline engine, correct?

Thanks to everyone for their help so far!

Ben Wagner


On 7/15/2012 11:55 PM, charlie hill wrote:
> Oh and while you are at it take the fuel line off and blow carb cleaner
> through it (assuming it still has the factor metal fuel lines on it) and
> blow compressed air through it and repeat until you're sure there is no
> trash, rust, scale or gunk in it.  Check your sediment bowl strainer and
> make sure it is right and clean.  If someone has put an inline fuel filter
> on it take it off that might well be part or all of your problem.  Most of
> the inline fuel filters you see are designed for a pressurized system and
> don't gravity flow enough fuel to feed the carb on an updraft system.
>
> Charlie
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ben Wagner
> Sent: Sunday, July 15, 2012 9:03 PM
> To: Antique tractor email discussion group ; Farmall/IHC mailing list
> Subject: [AT] Easier to Start?
>
> Good Evening,
>
> It's been awhile since I have had to bring you an issue on my Farmall
> Super A.  It has always been hard to start, taking a long time of
> cranking (normally two periods of three seconds each) before it will
> begin to fire.  Lately, the electrical system has acted up, and I am
> trying to start it with a hand crank.  It's great exercise, but not the
> greatest use of my time.  It took a good 20 some turns with the hand
> crank to get it to start firing tonight.  I'm surprised my arm can still
> type!
>
> Is there any sort of "trick" some of you know of to convince a tractor
> to start easier with a hand crank?
>
> In case it is important, the Super A has a good magneto, D21 spark
> plugs, and a Zenith carb.  It also only runs well on half choke, and
> there are no adjustments on the Zenith beyond the idle mixture.  I know
> the impulse coupling works, unless I am mistaken.
>
> Thanks for your help.  I'm sure all of you have had the tractor that
> won't start well with a hand crank!
>
> Ben Wagner
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