[Farmall] 340 Utility hydraulics

[Stan Bass]

Mike was kind enough to send me all the hydraulics from his parts 240 years ago that I used (along with some 230 parts) in an experiment changing the hydraulics on a Super C for a cleaner 3 pnt hitch control.

Anyways, the Super A & Super C have the reservoir built into the touch control sitting under the gas tank (doesn't hold that much) and the torque tube is dry, then the 230/240 have a different torque tube with a reservoir in it but it is still seperate from the transmission. AFAIK the 300 series hyd's share the tranny fluid, but my experience there is nill other than reading (my stage II Super H is the closest I have to the 300 series but it still has a seperate hyd system).
Stan(VA).

--- On Mon, 8/27/12, Mike Sloane <mikesloane at verizon.net> wrote:

> From: Mike Sloane <mikesloane at verizon.net>
> Subject: Re: [Farmall] 340 Utility hydraulics
> To: "Farmall/IHC mailing list" <farmall at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> Date: Monday, August 27, 2012, 8:38 AM
> I would (almost) never want to
> contradict Jim on anything related to IH 
> products, since he know far more about them than I would
> ever hope to 
> know. But in this case I have to make a correction: The 340
> (and the 
> 240) use the transmission and final drive for the hydraulic
> reservoir 
> and takes about 6 gallons of Hy-Tran (or equivalent) fluid.
> 
> So I suggest draining out as much as you can that is
> reasonable, change 
> the filter assembly, and don't worry about the small amount
> that is left 
> in the valves, pump, and lines. The hitch cylinder and lines
> going to 
> and from it take about a quart, so you might want to make
> sure the 
> cylinder is compressed and blow out the lines (a messy
> job!).
> 
> If the hydraulics are "non working", I would start on the
> suction side 
> of the system and look for problems such as collapsed
> suction hose, 
> clogged filter(s), etc. Then work your way "forward" to the
> pump, 
> valves, etc. Pumps and valves do go bad, but my bet would be
> something 
> in the suction side.
> 
> Binder Books <www.binderbooks,com> has all the IH Blue
> Ribbon service 
> manuals for the various parts of the tractor. My opinion is
> that it is 
> well worth the money to buy the whole package, as well as
> the user manual.
> 
> Mike
> 
> On 8/26/2012 7:11 PM, Jim Becker wrote:
> > I thought the 340 hydraulics used oil from the
> transmission.  If so, you are
> > looking at 5 or 6 gallons for a change.  Assuming
> that is so, I would pull
> > the transmission/differential drain plug and give the
> crud at least over
> > night to drain.  Then do a partial refill, enough
> for the gears and
> > hydraulics to be able to pick it up, maybe a couple
> gallons will do it.  Run
> > it around some to flush things and drain it
> again.  Repeat until the oil
> > doesn't turn white.  I would use genuine Hy-Tran
> as it will absorb more
> > moisture.  Using something else will require more
> flushes.
> >
> > Then you can start working on the hydraulics. 
> Maybe clean oil will be all
> > the hydraulics needs.  Otherwise, clean all the
> intakes, strainers, filter
> > etc. and see if that fixes it.  If it doesn't,
> then you have real hydraulic
> > repairs to diagnose/fix.  Once it is fixed, you
> will need to cycle the hitch
> > and whatever is attached.  You will probably need
> to change the oil again
> > and top it off.
> >
> > I hate to say it, but sometimes if maintenance is
> deferred long enough, you
> > need to catch up, not just pick up the schedule!
> >
> > Jim Becker
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: prjones
> > Sent: Sunday, August 26, 2012 5:22 PM
> > To: Farmall/IHC mailing list
> > Subject: [Farmall] 340 Utility hydraulics
> >
> > I bought a 340 utility gas with non working hydraulics.
> I pulled the plate
> > for the filter and the oil was white. I know I have
> water in oil. What
> > should be my next step? I hate to drain it and put in
> 10 quarts of Hytran
> > and then have to do it again wasting the oil. any
> advice or test I can run?
> 
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