[Farmall] Farmall H Tire Width

Jerry Bossard jerry.bossard at gmail.com
Tue Oct 4 06:55:18 PDT 2011


Mike, Carl & E. John,

Thanks for you advice and input.  I was thinking about getting the 7' blade
originally, but wasn't sure.  Thanks for clarifying.  I do have a set of
wheel weights on the rears and a set of chains too, so that will help.
 Again, thanks for all the help.  :-)

Jerry

On Tue, Oct 4, 2011 at 8:16 AM, E. John Puckett <ejpuckett at centurytel.net>wrote:

> One more thing, in addition to what others have pointed out is to make
> sure your brakes are in good shape, because you will be doing a lot of
> steering with the brakes.
>
> On 10/3/2011 11:31 PM, Jerry Bossard wrote:
> > Mike,
> >
> > Thanks for the information.  I've heard about the stiff neck issue.  :-)
> >
> > I noticed that your Ford 860 is rated by the Nebraska Tractor Test to be
> > rated at 39 HP and my H is rated at 25 HP.  Would you still go with a 7'
> > blade or with the less HP would you consider something else?  I suppose
> it
> > does matter if I can stay a head of the snow fall and not wait til the
> storm
> > is over in which the blade and tractor may be asked to do too much and/or
> > the amount of time to move it would increase.
> >
> > Again, thanks for your information and opinions!  They are greatly
> > appreciated.  :-)
> >
> > On Monday, October 3, 2011, Mike Sloane<mikesloane at verizon.net>  wrote:
> >> I use a rear mounted 7' three point blade on my Ford 860 (similar in
> >> weight to the H), and I have (almost) no problem with the the blade
> >> pushing the front end around. I wouldn't go much wider than 7', and 6'
> >> might be too narrow when angled. As far as the rear tire spacing, I
> >> would say that anything narrower than the angled blade width would be
> >> fine.<http://public.fotki.com/mikesloane/other_machinery/fordcab2.html>
> >>
> >> Based on my experience I would make two recommendations: use chains
> >> (preferably the "duo link" type) on the rear tires and avoid waiting
> >> until the snow is deep - once it starts going over the top of the blade,
> >> you will waste a lot of time going over the same area. I should point
> >> out that is hard for a three-point blade to "bulldoze" a wider path,
> >> once you are done. So, if you are in an area that gets repeated snow
> >> storms, make the path as wide as possible and try to keep it that way.
> >> One year, we had half a dozen snow storms in succession, and the cartway
> >> got narrower and narrower, until it was barely wider than the blade.
> >>
> >> It is tempting to turn the blade around and plow backwards, and that
> >> will work fairly well, but you will have a stiff neck for a week
> >> afterwards (don't ask me how I know this).
> >>
> >> (I now use a truck mounted plow to clear the private lane and no longer
> >> have that problem.)
> >>
> >> Mike
> >>
> >> On 10/3/2011 5:05 PM, Jerry Bossard wrote:
> >>> Can someone tell me what is best tire width for traction for moving
> snow
> >>> with 3 point?  Would it be best to move tires in or out or leave them
> in
> > the
> >>> middle somewhere?  Just working to try and get things ready for the
> > winter.
> >>>    This will be my first winter with the Farmall H for moving snow.  I
> > intend
> >>> to use a rear mounted blade on the 3 point, but not sure what footage
> to
> > buy
> >>> (6', 7' or 8') as I have reservations about how much blade is too much
> > blade
> >>> for moving snow and getting stuck.  ;-)
> >>>
> >>> Thanks,
> >>>
> >>> Jerry Bossard
> >>> 1942 Farmall H
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> >>>
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