[Farmall] Repairing IH "flat back" lamps
szabelsk at gdls.com
szabelsk at gdls.com
Mon May 2 12:04:56 PDT 2011
Mike,
Been reading the posts responding to your original e-mail. Repairing the
"sealed beam" shouldn't be difficult using any standard automotive style
bulb designed for use in a headlight application.
Once you remove the crimped in bulb, measure the distance from the crimp
to were the filament is (was). This is the location were you want the new
filament to wind up. Too far back and you'll lose candlepower due to
possibly being beyond the reflective surface or down into the neck of the
reflector. Too far forward and again you lose candlepower since you're not
making use of all the reflective surface behind the filament. Location of
the filament is important when it comes to lights.
Take any standard headlight bulb and solder two wires to it. One should be
on the brass base of the bulb and one on the center contact. The center
contact is your normal power connection, and the brass base is your normal
ground. When attaching the wire to the brass base, make sure you don't
unsolder the small wire which comes out of the bulb near the glass. When
attaching the wire to the center contact don't worry too much about
screwing up the small solder point, just make sure you don't create a
solder bridge to the brass base.
Some bulbs will have a glass insulator between the center contact and the
brass base, some will have plastic. If you have plastic and melt the
plastic away, that's OK. Just slide some insulation sleeving down the wire
and into the brass base. Test the bulb too make sure it works, than fill
the brass base with RTV, silicon, or even JB weld. You don' have to worry
about breaking the vacuum on the bulb since it's actually a glass seal at
the base of the glass bulb (the wires are crimped in the glass when its
still hot and the vacuum is being drawn. The brass base is essentially
glued onto the glass bulb and held in place by the wires. You've probably
seen working bulbs that would rotate in their base. That's because
whatever was used to attach the base to the bulb let go and the wires
weren't twisted off of internally shorted together.
Once you have the wires attached and have verified the bulb works, make an
adapter out of plastic or some other handy material that will secure the
bulb into the sealed beam such that the new filament is were the old
filament sat. Glue it in and you should be good to go. Making the adapter
out of metal won't hurt, it should actually give you a better ground
connection between the new bulb base and the old sealed beam.
As another thought, an old style headlight socket from an older car should
fit into the sealed beam (???). Attach a second wire to the old style
socket base if necessary and install the bulb into the socket in the
normal manner. Again, affix the old style socket base into the sealed
beam.using a home made adapter. Now you should be able to pull the old
style socket out and do a simple bulb swap if the new bulb burns out.
Carl Szabelski
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