[AT] Oil and cold weather.

[charlie hill]

Gene,   don't you wish you had some multi-viscosity oil back then?

Charlie


-----Original Message----- 
From: Gene Dotson
Sent: Saturday, January 01, 2011 7:38 AM
To: Antique tractor email discussion group
Subject: [AT] Oil and cold weather.

    Hi Rupert;

    Brings back my memories working on C-124 cargo planes at Dover,
Delaware. The C-124 used the big R-4360 engines with dry sump lubrication
and remote 80 gallon oil tanks in the wing behind the engine. Summer weight
oil was 80 wt. and winter oil was 60 wt. Oil was serviced from a tanker
truck with a gear pump and a long hose like a gas pump hose. Winter
servicing was a slow process as the oil flowed like tar from the hose into
the tank. Would have to stop and let the oil settle in the tank to get a
true level.

    Winter operation dictated diluting the oil with gasoline before the
engine shutdown. In extreme weather this would take as much as 20 gallons of
fuel per engine. In flight the heat of operation would evaporate the
gasoline from the oil.

            Gene


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Rupert" <rwenig2 at xplornet.com>
To: "Antique tractor email discussion group" <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Sent: Friday, December 31, 2010 10:47 PM
Subject: Re: [AT] Yellow Farmall now cold starting


> Hello Ralph,
> Have you ever tried pouring 90wt oil when it's -20 or colder? I have.
> You need a knife to cut it. Reminds me of a time when I had to retrieve
> an aircraft that had sprung a bad oil leak in the propeller. I went in
> the next day after the aircraft ( a beaver for those that know aircraft)
> had sat overnight on a frozen lake in -30 temps. The wind chill was much
> cooler. The oil that engine uses is SAE50. This was the first time I had
> experienced this problem.We had the proper wrenches with us but know one
> told us that we would have to deal with frozen oil. The oil seal that
> keeps the oil in the actuating cylinder had sprung a leak so the oil got
> between the splined crankshaft and the propeller hub. No amount of
> puling or pushing with the tools we had with us or could fashion with
> materials at hand would budge the propeller. It took over 3 hours using
> a blow pot and a tent to get the propeller off so we could change the
> seal.
>
> I used to do like your doing with the battery charger- putting the
> charger on for awhile when I put the tractor away to make sure the
> battery was charged. Then, 2-3 weeks later if I haven't used the tractor
> I would put the charger on for a couple of hours. AMA sent me a flyer
> advertising a battery minder such as
> <http://batterytender.com/automotive/battery-tender-junior-12v-at-0-75a.html>?
> I have 3 on test this winter. AMA's price is better but you have to be a
> member. This is the first time I've tried them and results are promising
> so far. One is on my tractor. The other two are on my motorhome. All
> three batteries test full charge. The tractor (a Farmall 656) turns over
> like the battery is strong.
>
> Rupert
>

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