[Farmall] Restoration

[Bob Currie]

Jerry, those are hard questions to answer. There are many variables with a 
project like that. Having it done by Independence day will depend simply on 
how many hours a week you (being a DIY) can spend working on the tractor. 
And the amount of hours to complete depends on how fast you work, the type 
of tools you use, and a major factor is the weather, unless you have an 
indoor paint booth and climate controlled area for working.  My experience 
doing a few tractors, and with my attention to detail, it takes me longer 
than the average bear and no way could I do that job in 9 weeks, unless I 
worked on it much of the time. It's also fair to warn you of the 35 percent 
rule. The time needed and the cost of the project will almost always be 
about 35 percent more than you originally figured. Case in point, the last 
tractor I painted, the hood had to be sanded and painted three times before 
it came out good. If you decide not to do a complete tear down, I'd say you 
could have her done by your deadline as long as you have those other two 
things.  Plenty of time to work on it, and the money to spend when needed. 
How much does it cost?  I have no idea, it depends on the quality of the 
materials and parts you buy, and if you want to purchase any tools. Such as 
a nice, pneumatic sander versus sanding everything by hand. My 
recommendation is to have a go at it, but don't lock yourself into a 
deadline. If you get behind your time line, then it becomes stressful, and 
all the fun is gone.

bobcurrie,
Greenwood, CA


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jerry Bossard" <jerry.bossard at gmail.com>
To: "Farmall/IHC mailing list" <farmall at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 26, 2011 7:25 AM
Subject: Re: [Farmall] Restoration


> E. John,
>
> Thanks for the information.  I've driven it for about 2 hours and had the
> PTO running a sickle mower for about 30 minutes and so far no problems, 
> but
> I suppose that may not be enough time to find all the leaks.  Does anyone
> have an estimated cost for a tractor to be disassembled, blasted and
> painted.  I'd like to have it done by the 4th of July for a parade, but am 
> I
> asking for something that cannot be done?  Any idea the amount of hours to
> complete this project if someone is a DIY?
>
> Thanks.
>
> On Tue, Apr 26, 2011 at 9:09 AM, E. John Puckett
> <ejpuckett at centurytel.net>wrote:
>
>> First off, if it were mine:  I would drive it and use it some to see
>> what it needs.  getting one all pretty up, etc. and then realizing you
>> have an oil or fuel seep is real discouraging.  Likewise for a coolant
>> leak.
>>
>> If the paint looks good, it is most assuredly not original, but still
>> may be old enough to be lead paint, so any sanding, blasting, etc. needs
>> preparation to control the dust and keep it out of your lungs.
>> Blasting, whether it be sand or soda is not a good idea for anything
>> that is assembled.  The dust and particles will get into openings you do
>> not realize or even there, and will work into seals etc. causing
>> premature oil leaks and bearing wear.
>>
>> Powder coating an entire tractor is not practical, powder coat requires
>> the item to be baked for several minutes, which is not practical on an
>> entire tractor.  You can get the original color form you local Case/IH
>> dealer or most paint shops can mix it for you.
>>
>> On 4/25/2011 9:49 PM, Jerry Bossard wrote:
>> > I have a 1942 H with good paint but there are areas where the paint
>> > has chipped off and now metal it exposed.  I just recently purchased
>> > this tractor so I don't have much history, but I do know that it was
>> > parked in a shed when not in use, even if it was only for an over
>> > night.  There is little rust but I would like to make it parade ready.
>> > I'm new to tractor restorations so any help would be appreciated.  I
>> > am quite a DIY type of person.
>> >
>> > Should I soda blast it to start over or just try to buff out the edges
>> > and repaint?  I'd rather not sand blast because of all the damage it
>> > does to the metal.  If the paint is original it will most likely be
>> > lead paint?  If so, will soda blasting even take it off or will I have
>> > no choice but to sand blast?
>> >
>> > Secondly, when it comes to painting, do I powder coat it?  Should I
>> > spray it on?  What type of paint would you suggest?  Would an exterior
>> > "Rustoleum" product work or is that not a good idea.
>> >
>> > Thanks,
>> >
>> > Jerry
>> > _______________________________________________
>> > Farmall mailing list
>> > http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/farmall
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>> --
>> Edgar John Puckett
>> 10142 Mahagony Rd.
>> Potosi, Mo. 63664
>> 573-438-2799
>> mobil 573-210-0061
>>
>>
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