[Farmall] 55 Farmall Cub fuel tank: clean and repair

[Mike Sloane]

Dale wrote:
> I have a 55 Cub which I am repairing/"restoring" a bit at a time.  I
> know this is not the most efficient method, but we actually use "her"
> for mowing and need to keep her running.  Also, I am doing it myself,
> so the project gets a bit slow...
> 
> I need to have some repair done to the fuel tank, which I have
> already removed.  I have not had any problem with sediment, and when
> looking inside, the tank APPEARS to be free of rust.  Does anyone
> recommend coating the inside of the tank while it is off?  If so,
> where do I take it?
If you don't have any rust or other crud, I would just leave it alone.
> 
> Next, I need to repair a couple cracks where the tank bolts to the
> doglegs...the welded nut on one side has actually broken away with
> about 2" of metal (I have the piece).  What is the best method for
> this and to whom would I take it?
When you say the "tank" and the dog legs, I am guessing you mean the 
front (hood) part that has the lights and bolts to the radiator support. 
I would say that this is a job for someone with a MIG welder. I don't 
think (without seeing the actual damage) that this is a very difficult 
weld, but you might want to put some kind of backing plate (with out 
interfering with anything else under the hood.
> 
> Third, in addition to just plain cleaning everything up while it is
> apart, what would be the minimum things to do, e.g. compression/bleed
> down test?  Valves?  ???
Since the C-60 engine is an "F" head, you can't do the valves without 
pulling the head. The test I would recommend would be a leak down test, 
but you won't know anything for sure until you tear the engine down. If 
  all four cylinders come up with about the same results, I would tend 
to leave well enough along. But if one cylinder is noticeably worse than 
the other three, then it is probably time for major work. That being 
said, A couple of my Cubs (a '48 and a '55) smoke some from worn rings, 
and I have been meaning to do something about them for the last 20 
years. Yet they start and run just fine. If you need the tractor for 
mowing, I would plan on doing any serious engine work some time in the 
fall, after the grass stops growing. If you are going to dig into the 
engine, I would also suggest taking a look at the wiring to make sure 
that all of the insulation is in good shape. Also, the rear main seals 
have a tendency to weep, which requires splitting the tractor - 
something best done when you have the hood off and the engine being 
overhauled. None of this is especially difficult or complex, but I 
strongly recommend getting an IH service manual for the Cub from Binder 
Books <www.binderbooks.com>, as the manual is very thorough in walking 
one through all repair processes.

Mike
> 
> Thanks,  Dale Finch
> 
> 
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