[Farmall] Replacing the gas tank

[John Wilkens]

Hi Mike.  Would you believe we can now get ethenol-free 92 octain :( 
gas delevered to the farm tank...or gas cans!      John W.




At 10:35 AM 06/29/2010, you wrote:
>I meant to add that it is not a bad idea to pick up some "gas tank
>sealer" from your local motorcycle shop and coat the inside of the tank
>after it is dry. This will help seal any pinholes that might be there
>and keep the tank from rusting. Just make sure that the stuff you buy
>can handle gas with ethanol in it - some of the older stuff couldn't,
>and the E10 gas just dissolved the liner and screwed up the engine.
>There are lots of brands of sealers, but the one from the local
>motorcycle shop should do the job just fine.
>
>Mike
>
>On 6/29/2010 1:21 PM, Mike Sloane wrote:
> > I will give you my opinion, based on some limited experience:
> >
> > A used tank may look OK on the outside, but the chances are very good
> > that it has accumulated a lot of varnish/crud over the years. I
> > recommend that you put a few gallons of soapy water in it, add a couple
> > of 2' lengths of heavy chain, seal all the openings, and find some way
> > to agitate the whole thing for about an hour. (I strapped a tank to one
> > wheel of a Cub. The wheel was jacked up so that it could turn, and then
> > I started the tractor and ran it in 1st gear.)
> > <http://public.fotki.com/mikesloane/farmall_140/140_tank_clean1.html>
> >
> > When you are done, retrieve the chains and flush out the tank
> > thoroughly, then sit it in the sun to dry - it will heat up pretty
> > quickly in full sun. Some people use other stuff (rocks, old hardware,
> > etc.) for cleaning, but I have found that it is much easier to retrieve
> > the chain.
> >
> > As far as the old gas in either tank, you can put a little at a time
> > into your car/truck - the engine's electronics will handle it fine if
> > you don't overdo it. I use the stuff for washing greasy parts; some
> > folks use it for starting fires in "burn piles" (which are illegal in
> > this state).
> >
> > Don't waste your money on premium gas - the only thing that premium gas
> > provides is anti-knock additives for high compression engines, nothing
> > more. And your tractor certainly cannot be thought of as "high
> > compression", even when new. There are some people who think that
> > premium gas is better for small engines because they think it has less
> > ethanol or water in it. I think that is a myth.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> >
> >
> > On 6/29/2010 12:23 PM, Tim Savelle wrote:
> >> I'm about to replace the gas tank on my 1949 H. Some moron who owned
> >> it in
> >> the past put self tapping screws into the top of the tank, apparently to
> >> mount something. The person who restored it filled the holes with bond-o
> >> and painted over them. Of course, the gas fumes disintegrated the bond-o,
> >> and now I have massive paint blisters over the places where the holes
> >> are.
> >> I just decided to get a tank off a parts tractor and replace it rather
> >> than
> >> attempting to have this one fixed.
> >>
> >> As far as changing out the tank...is there anything I need to know? I
> >> don't
> >> really see a good way to drain the gas out other than removing the bowl
> >> assembly, which could spill gas all over the place. Suggestions?
> >>
> >> Also, is there any benefit to burning premium gas in the old gal?
> >> Would she
> >> run smoother or better? Any problems it could cause?
> >>
> >> Thanks,
> >> Tim
> >>
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