[AJD] Introduction - and a question

[John]

   Mark, so often if they are stuck badly even if you crudely unstick them 
rings can be stuck to where they no longer flex and/or get broke but hey 
give it a try I guess.

  a) I would FIRST fill the cylinders via the plug holes with a witches brew 
of Diesel and Auto Tranny Fluid and Brake Fluid, do that for a few days

  b) Next I would remove the rocker arm assembly in case valves are stuck so 
you wont bend pushrods if you get her to turn over I CONSIDER THAT VERY 
IMPORTANT

  c) Then using the flywheel as others mentioned try to get her to rock back 
n forth back n forth just a little at a time mind you

 d) If you get the pistons unstuck then see if any valves are stuck in their 
stems and if not reinstall the rocker arm assembly and check/adjust the 
valve lash clearances

 e) Drain and refill the crankcase n see if she has compression and oil 
pressure n give her a try I reckon,  LET US ALL KNOW

  Ol John T Nordhoff in Indiana
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mark Johnson" <mark.s.johnson at pixius.net>
To: <antique-johndeere at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Sent: Friday, June 04, 2010 8:48 AM
Subject: [AJD] Introduction - and a question


> Greetings all!
>
> Since things are quiet and I'm new to the list, please allow me to 
> introduce myself.
>
> My name is Mark Johnson, and I live near Wichita, Kansas, although I grew 
> up in
> a 'green' family in southern Indiana - at various times we had two 730s, a 
> 620, two
> different A's (both styled, although I only worked with the later one) and 
> an H.
> [I won't talk about the IH and the three different ACs; that's for another 
> list :-)]
>
> The H is a narrow-front-end model (two wheel, not an HNH) and has been in 
> the
> family since my grandfather purchased it in 1941; it now sits in my shed, 
> patiently
> waiting for me to get to work on it - the serial number is 17616, which 
> places it in
> the 1940 production year. It is basically all-original, except that the 
> fenders are
> long gone, having rusted away in less than two years, according to my 
> dad -
> and the original magneto was replaced with a Wico X, probably in the 
> middle
> to late 1940s - my grandfather didn't run distillate very much, and not at 
> all
> after the war ended. The X magneto is a gasoline-only magneto with 18 
> degree
> max spark advance. Sheet metal is good with only surface rust, no 
> perforation,
> and it was repainted and re-decaled in about 1980 or so. The block has not 
> been
> bored, and I don't intend on doing so unless I have to (see next 
> paragraph).
>
> Little Johnny was running when I had him trucked out to Kansas six years 
> ago,
> but has since become stuck while sitting waiting for me to get cracking on 
> a
> decent restoration. That brings me to my question: I need suggestions for 
> a good
> treatment/regimen to get things unstuck. I am strongly tempted to do it by 
> brute
> force, but I don't think that's necessarily a good idea. I do have a Ford 
> 9N that is
> my mowing tractor (5 acre lot!) if it comes to that.
>
> Also...it still has the last antifreeze and oil in it, been in there since 
> I moved it -
> I *know* that draining the coolant is a good idea, but I am not so sure 
> about
> letting it sit with the crankcase dry if I get distracted from the 
> project - opinions
> would be welcomed!
>
> Many thanks for any help!
>
> Mark Johnson
> Wichita, KS
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