[AJD] Introduction - and a question

[Bill Brueck]

Standard procedure for a lightly stuck Deere is to stick a couple of stout
bolts in the holes near the center of the flywheel.  This will give you a
place to put a bar and apply controlled force in either direction.  From
what you describe I expect it will shake loose easily for you.  Did this on
my own H a few years back when it had set a little too long.

Filling the cylinders with diesel fuel first will help, too.  When it starts
moving the surfaces won't be dry.  The diesel will quickly end up in the
crankcase, especially after you get a little movement.  It also has an
tendency to end up on your pant legs if you have the petcocks open or on
your shirt through the spark plug hole.

I'd vote for leaving fluids in place, including the diesel from the cylinder
project.  Others may have a better answer, especially regarding the coolant.

Bill Brueck
   Pine Island, MN USA


-----Original Message-----
From: antique-johndeere-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
[mailto:antique-johndeere-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com] On Behalf Of
Mark Johnson
Sent: Friday, June 04, 2010 7:49 AM
To: antique-johndeere at lists.antique-tractor.com
Subject: [AJD] Introduction - and a question

Greetings all!

Since things are quiet and I'm new to the list, please allow me to introduce
myself.

My name is Mark Johnson, and I live near Wichita, Kansas, although I grew up
in 
a 'green' family in southern Indiana - at various times we had two 730s, a
620, two
different A's (both styled, although I only worked with the later one) and
an H. 
[I won't talk about the IH and the three different ACs; that's for another
list :-)]

The H is a narrow-front-end model (two wheel, not an HNH) and has been in
the
family since my grandfather purchased it in 1941; it now sits in my shed,
patiently
waiting for me to get to work on it - the serial number is 17616, which
places it in 
the 1940 production year. It is basically all-original, except that the
fenders are 
long gone, having rusted away in less than two years, according to my dad - 
and the original magneto was replaced with a Wico X, probably in the middle
to late 1940s - my grandfather didn't run distillate very much, and not at
all 
after the war ended. The X magneto is a gasoline-only magneto with 18 degree
max spark advance. Sheet metal is good with only surface rust, no
perforation,
and it was repainted and re-decaled in about 1980 or so. The block has not
been
bored, and I don't intend on doing so unless I have to (see next paragraph).

Little Johnny was running when I had him trucked out to Kansas six years
ago,
but has since become stuck while sitting waiting for me to get cracking on a

decent restoration. That brings me to my question: I need suggestions for a
good
treatment/regimen to get things unstuck. I am strongly tempted to do it by
brute
force, but I don't think that's necessarily a good idea. I do have a Ford 9N
that is
my mowing tractor (5 acre lot!) if it comes to that.

Also...it still has the last antifreeze and oil in it, been in there since I
moved it -
I *know* that draining the coolant is a good idea, but I am not so sure
about 
letting it sit with the crankcase dry if I get distracted from the project -
opinions
would be welcomed!

Many thanks for any help! 

Mark Johnson
Wichita, KS
_______________________________________________
Antique-johndeere mailing list
http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/antique-johndeere