[AJD] Introduction - and a question

John B rustyacres at yahoo.com
Fri Jun 4 10:02:08 PDT 2010


Brute force is not a good idea to try to break the pistons loose.

I know some of you may think it is too much work, but we ALWAYS remove the block from the case, especially if the pistons are stuck. Then we use a hydraulic press to safely push them out without breaking anything. This method always works. If you are going to the trouble to completely rebuild the engine, you should be removing the block anyway. You will want to have it magnafluxed to check for cracks, to be able to clean and hone it properly, and to replace the gasket between the case and block. In my opinion, if you don't do all these things, you are only doing a partial restoration.

John Boehm
Woodland, CA
Visit my web site at http://vintagetractors.com



--- On Fri, 6/4/10, Mark Johnson <mark.s.johnson at pixius.net> wrote:

From: Mark Johnson <mark.s.johnson at pixius.net>
Subject: [AJD] Introduction - and a question
To: antique-johndeere at lists.antique-tractor.com
Date: Friday, June 4, 2010, 5:48 AM

Greetings all!

Since things are quiet and I'm new to the list, please allow me to introduce myself.

My name is Mark Johnson, and I live near Wichita, Kansas, although I grew up in 
a 'green' family in southern Indiana - at various times we had two 730s, a 620, two
different A's (both styled, although I only worked with the later one) and an H. 
[I won't talk about the IH and the three different ACs; that's for another list :-)]

The H is a narrow-front-end model (two wheel, not an HNH) and has been in the
family since my grandfather purchased it in 1941; it now sits in my shed, patiently
waiting for me to get to work on it - the serial number is 17616, which places it in 
the 1940 production year. It is basically all-original, except that the fenders are 
long gone, having rusted away in less than two years, according to my dad - 
and the original magneto was replaced with a Wico X, probably in the middle
to late 1940s - my grandfather didn't run distillate very much, and not at all 
after the war ended. The X magneto is a gasoline-only magneto with 18 degree
max spark advance. Sheet metal is good with only surface rust, no perforation,
and it was repainted and re-decaled in about 1980 or so. The block has not been
bored, and I don't intend on doing so unless I have to (see next paragraph).

Little Johnny was running when I had him trucked out to Kansas six years ago,
but has since become stuck while sitting waiting for me to get cracking on a 
decent restoration. That brings me to my question: I need suggestions for a good
treatment/regimen to get things unstuck. I am strongly tempted to do it by brute
force, but I don't think that's necessarily a good idea. I do have a Ford 9N that is
my mowing tractor (5 acre lot!) if it comes to that.

Also...it still has the last antifreeze and oil in it, been in there since I moved it -
I *know* that draining the coolant is a good idea, but I am not so sure about 
letting it sit with the crankcase dry if I get distracted from the project - opinions
would be welcomed!

Many thanks for any help! 

Mark Johnson
Wichita, KS
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