[AT] Thanks!

[Larry Goss]

!!! Charlie, you gotta keep your eyes open for these things in antique shops.  The shop owners have no idea what they are and price them very cheaply.  The last one I bought looked brand new and only cost me $15.

Larry

----- Original Message -----
From: charliehill <charliehill at embarqmail.com>
Date: Saturday, October 10, 2009 7:11
Subject: Re: [AT] Thanks!
To: Antique tractor email discussion group <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>

> You know,  we never had and sickle bar mowers or combines 
> with bean heads, 
> etc. on our farm.  I've seen those spinners before and 
> never knew exactly 
> what they were.
> 
> Charlie
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Mike Sloane" <mikesloane at verizon.net>
> To: "Antique tractor email discussion group" 
> <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> Sent: Saturday, October 10, 2009 7:09 AM
> Subject: Re: [AT] Thanks!
> 
> 
> > One of the advantages of the rivet spinner tool is that you 
> can change
> > the section(s) out (in the shop or in the field) without 
> removing the
> > bar from the mower, you don't need a hammer, chisel, special 
> punch, or
> > supporting block - just a box wrench to  run the two 
> tools down. One
> > tool punches out the old rivet, and the second one supplies 
> the pressure
> > to set the section securely in place against the bar, then 
> puts pressure
> > on the rivet to enlarge it, and finally round the end to 
> produce an even
> > surface that won't catch on anything. As they say in the ads: 
> "try it,
> > you'll like it".
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > Indiana Robinson wrote:
> >
> >> I mostly just change sections with the sickle still in the 
> mower. I
> >> have an old king-pin that I ground flats on the sides at one 
> end so it
> >> fits up between the guards. It sits on a heavy oak block with the
> >> ground flat end up with the weight of the mower bar sitting 
> on it. It
> >> has a shallow dimple in that end that centers on the rivet 
> head and
> >> holds it solidly up in the bar. I give the rivet a solid 
> whack with a
> >> hammer while being sure that the section stays down flat. 
> That whack
> >> swells the body of the rivet  which tightens it solidly 
> in the holes
> >> of both parts. After I have both rivets done like that I then 
> flip the
> >> hammer over and peen it down some then I use a regular rivet 
> set to
> >> finish the head of the rivet.
> >> -
> >> Removal of the old section if it is still attached is as 
> simple as
> >> popping the rivet heads off with a sharp cold chisel and 
> tapping the
> >> old rivets out with a small drift punch.
> >> -
> >> I can change a section and be mowing again in the time it usually
> >> requires to pull the sickle out of the mower.
> >> -
> >> BTW, I do not consider it sufficient to just form a head on the
> >> rivets. Unless you swell the shank of the rivet in the holes 
> so that
> >> there can be no movement at all the section can loosen with use.
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