[Ford-ferguson] Ford-ferguson Digest, Vol 56, Issue 5 Leaking front tire problem

[cwi813 at mchsi.com]

A tire going flat could be due to rust forming under the tire's seal.

A great solution I've found (although there are many) is Rust Oleum's Metal Saver TM  "Rust Reformer" - available from many hardware stores, paint stores and lumber yards.  The white plastic bottle declares it "Converts rusty metal to a protected, paintable surface." And I'll personally vouch for every word on the label.  It comes in an 8 fl. oz. size and the estimated coverage for one bottle is 24 square feet.  I've used it for years on wrought iron patio tables and chairs (it eliminated sandblasting for me), and on many places on my Ford-Ferguson 9N when I bought it and it's now waiting to be painted - several years later (if you apply two coats to the metal you don't need to paint it).  The bottle has a red lid, comes with a 3M-type scratchy pad to remove rust, and a "paint pad" to apply the liquid.  The bottle is all you need to buy to immediately go to work with it - all your tools are attached (by plastic) to the bottle. 

I didn't think it would work like the label said , but it has performed perfectly on every thing I've used it on, is very easy to apply and dries quickly. I've also used it on car rust - later touching up the "Rust Reformer" place with touch-up paint. I look like a pro. :O)

I don't own or know anyone who is part of the company, so don't worry about who I'm advertising for. :O)  It's a staple in my tractor-medicine closet and is good, hardy, "stuff."

Best wishes,

CJ
cwi813 at mchsi.com 

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> 1. Re: mail (Rick Yearout) 
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> 4. Re: mail (Rick Yearout) 
> 5. Re: mail (Bob Jeffers) 
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> ---------------------------------------------------------------------- 
> 
> Message: 1 
> Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2009 12:43:48 -0800 
> From: Rick Yearout 
> Subject: Re: [Ford-ferguson] mail 
> To: "'Ford-Ferguson mailing list'" 
> 
> Message-ID: <000001c971d1$ee9c8b30$cbd5a190$@com> 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" 
> 
> Joseph, 
> I have a TO30/1952 with a 12V alternator that does not seem to keep 
> the battery charged. 
> I replaced the ammeter and have tried wiring from both sides 
> of the terminals on the meter since neither side showed charge. 
> So I took the alternator and had it tested at NAPA who told me 
> it is outputting 12v/30 amps. 
> 
> I have the ignition hot lead going down to the top mount switch 
> on the bell housing terminal, which also has the positive battery lead. 
> That goes to the starter. 
> The single wire alternator lead goes to - side of the ammeter. 
> The + side of the ammeter goes down to the bell housing terminal 
> where the battery is connected. 
> It is still not charging. 
> I have two diagrams I have downloaded but neither configuration 
> is working. 
> Any ideas? 
> 
> I should be receiving my Ferguson shop manual this week 
> so it may provide exactly how it needs to be wired. 
> 
> Thanks for any guidance. 
> 
> Rick 1952 TO30 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message----- 
> From: ford-ferguson-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com 
> [mailto:ford-ferguson-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com] On Behalf Of Joseph 
> Knight 
> Sent: Sunday, January 04, 2009 4:18 PM 
> To: Ford-Ferguson mailing list 
> Subject: Re: [Ford-ferguson] mail 
> 
> FWIW: 
> Smith & Sons of Warrenton VA was able to get me a replacement ignition 
> switch for my TO35 (but is was a few years ago) and that solved some 
> electrical problems. If you can get an inner tube for the front tire, 
> that might isolate the problem--I have had the valve to fail as well, 
> but that usually goes completely flat rather quickly. Dave beat me to 
> the 12 V light question, but if there is a bad ground on the light 
> circuit, you would not see a high discharge. 
> 
> TBache9248 at aol.com wrote: 
> > Good Morning, 
> > 
> > Like you, haven't seen any content. Lots of spam invasions to some of 
> these 
> > and that drives people away. Best thing is if the list is never made 
> public 
> > and members only "approved". Publish the name of the list in well known 
> > publications of interest such as the N-Newsletter and let people find it 
> that 
> > way. It requires a moderator of sorts. 
> > 
> > Anyway, as for me, my TO30 has a front tire that keeps going down over 2-3 
> 
> > weeks and I can't figure the charging system. Ammeter shows it doesn't 
> charge 
> > and if you turn the headlamps on it show high discharge and they are very 
> 
> > dim. 
> > Done so far: replaced the battery, rebuilt the generator (6V positive 
> > ground) two different regulators, various attempts at polarizing the 
> generator, new 
> > battery cables, new wiring loom, checked twice to be sure I don't have 
> > something wired backward. 
> > I presume either is has a bad ground on the light circuit or the 
> > ignition/lamp switch is bad. I have not seen a vendor that sells the 
> original style 
> > switch with the bakelite key. 
> > Despite this, it seems to start readily, although 2-3 time a year I do 
> have 
> > to charge the battery. 
> > 
> > Friend is beginning a overhaul of his father-in-laws 8N. Been in family 
> > since new. I signed him up for subscripton of N-Newsletter too. 
> > 
> > Now, out to the shop to work on the Bobcat ( glow plugs not working) and 
> > then take the trans out of the Land Rover( bad bearing). 
> > 
> > Tom Bache 
> > Avondale, PA 
> > USA