[Farmall] Farmall H Electrical

[E. John Puckett]

sounds like it is wired such that coil is powered all the time.

KEITH LIPSCOMB wrote:
> It was getting a spark before the wiring change because it was running.  However, the battery, although new, is not keeping up a charge.  I've used a charger to recharge the battery.  The coil does get quite warm when I charge up the battery with a charger.
> Keith
>   ----- Original Message ----- 
>   From: John Wilkens<mailto:jwilkens at eoni.com> 
>   To: Farmall/IHC mailing list<mailto:farmall at lists.antique-tractor.com> 
>   Sent: Tuesday, October 14, 2008 12:13 PM
>   Subject: Re: [Farmall] Farmall H Electrical
>
>
>   Sorry, I thought you were Keith.    John
>
>   Breaker gap for coil ignition is .020" and for magneto ignition is 
>   .013".    But your .016" gap should work.
>   Are you getting any spark at the plugs?      John
>
>
>   At 03:46 AM 10/14/2008, you wrote:
>   >MABE I AM WRONG I SET POINTS AT .16 ?
>   >
>   >--- On Mon, 10/13/08, John Wilkens <jwilkens at eoni.com<mailto:jwilkens at eoni.com>> wrote:
>   >
>   >From: John Wilkens <jwilkens at eoni.com<mailto:jwilkens at eoni.com>>
>   >Subject: Re: [Farmall] Farmall H Electrical
>   >To: "Farmall/IHC mailing list" <farmall at lists.antique-tractor.com<mailto:farmall at lists.antique-tractor.com>>
>   >Date: Monday, October 13, 2008, 8:47 PM
>   >
>   >OK, start to see if you are getting spark at one of the plugs.  If
>   >not, see if you are getting current to the coil (use a volt meter or
>   >just see if it sparks at the terminal) with the ignition switch
>   >on.    If you have current to the coil take the distrib. cap off and
>   >see if you can get a spark between the points (with the ignition
>   >switch on) and check the points gap (about .20").  I assume you
>   >didn't pull the distributor shaft out and didn't get it out of
>   >time?  Sometimes a bad condenser can give problems with spark but if
>   >it was running before that's probably not the problem.     Another
>   >unlikely problem would be low conpression but probably not your
>   >problem.  Should be at least 60 lbs (minimal!) to run.
>   >So, if you have in-time spark and compression about all that's left
>   >is fuel.  That's easy to check with a squirt of starting fluid into
>   >the carb.....unless it is flooded :(.
>   >My two cents worth.  I probably forgot something obvious   :).   Let
>   >us know what you finally determine.       John W.
>   >
>   >
>   >At 05:21 PM 10/13/2008, you wrote:
>   > >It's a coil ignition.
>   > >   ----- Original Message -----
>   > >   From: John Wilkens<mailto:jwilkens at eoni.com<mailto:jwilkens at eoni.com>>
>   > >   To: Farmall/IHC mailing
>   >list<mailto:farmall at lists.antique-tractor.com<mailto:farmall at lists.antique-tractor.com>>
>   > >   Sent: Monday, October 13, 2008 6:50 PM
>   > >   Subject: Re: [Farmall] Farmall H Electrical
>   > >
>   > >
>   > >   Magneto or coil ignition?    John
>   > >
>   > >
>   > >   At 03:09 PM 10/13/2008, you wrote:
>   > >   >I've been rewiring my 1948 Farmall H and have run into a
>   > >   >snag.  After installing a new wiring harness, I can't get the
>   > >   >tractor to start.  The engine turns, but won't start.  In the
>   >past
>   > >   >I've replaced the plugs, battery, and voltage regulator...and
>   >the
>   > >   >tractor started.  However after this harness...it won't start.
>   >By
>   > >   >the way, I've polarized the generator and replaced the ammeter.
>   > >   >
>   > >   >Any thoughts?
>   > >   >
>   > >   >Thanks.
>   > >   >
>   > >   >Keith
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-- 
 John
another one of them
*.?-!.* cub owners