[AT] Welding Grousers...?
Mike Reggie
mrreg_99 at hotmail.com
Mon May 14 23:53:32 PDT 2007
Hey Richard, I'm here, Yes, I've welded quite a few grousers, and I too
would suggest staying within the size and style parameters of what is called
out by the manufacturer. Don't forget, if the grousers are worn enough to
need replacement, the shoes have also been thinning especially at the edges.
As someone has mentioned, make sure the shoes are tight to the chain, if the
shoe is loose and a new grouser is installed it will worsen that problem,
and once the shoe gets loose enough to allow dirt in between the holes and
bolts and the holes elongate, the damage is done and you will not be able to
get the shoe tight on the chain, etc., etc.... As has been suggested, use
the proper shoe bolts to attach the shoes to the chain, they really really
are made for this specific purpose, and even though we may be personally
convinced the hardware store or even the supply house grade 8 bolt will do
the job just fine, it will begin to "yield" in a very short time. Also the
whole rebar idea is not a good one, it will wear away in no time. Though I
would not do it ever again, not too many years ago I was convinced by a
customer to re-grouser his old Deere track loader that he was using for a
skidder and he insisted I use the rebar he had . Well, against my better
judgment, I did as told, and welded the rebar on the shoes, and I remember
it actually wore almost to nothing in weeks! No kidding.
The shoes will actually take to welding very well, I would however
strongly suggest the use of good dry low hydrogen electrodes such as 7018
and tack the grouser sufficiently before actually welding it. I personally
do not put the one I'm working on in a downhand position as I prefer to have
the slag kind of run away from me as I am welding, I try to position it into
more of slightly horizontal position, this also enables me to use the nose
position of the stinger and keep the rod in a constantly pointed position
which I always try to maintain when doing a lot of high rod consumption
jobs as it really saves the hand holding the stinger, both from a heat and
cramping perspective.
I would also be OK with this being migged, assuming I could do it in a non
windy environment with an s6 solid wire with shielding gas. I would not
feel comfortable about this being done with a flux-cored only non shielded
wire. I would also suggest that if you were using regular electrodes to
avoid any mild steel electrodes such as 6013, etc. or iron powder type
electrodes such as 7014 or 7024 as they would be prone to cracking in this
application.
As has also been mentioned this is a good job for honing, practicing,
improving your welding skills and techniques, but be warned that after a
while, it will become a nearly mindless task.
These are just my thoughts on the subject and I hope they will be of help,
good luck with the project whatever you decide.
Mike
----Original Message Follows----
From: Richard Fink Sr <nancydick at pennswoods.net>
Reply-To: Antique tractor email discussion group
<at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
To: Antique tractor email discussion group <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Subject: Re: [AT] Welding Grousers...?
Date: Mon, 14 May 2007 18:52:50 -0700
I think you will have some problems if the grousers are built up more
than 1/2 in above the pads. From the little i have learned you don't
want high grousers on a track loader it will tear up the frames or
finals. It gives them to much traction. this is what i have been told
by some older welders i have worked with. Maybe Mike Reggie will
read this and post a reply he does a lot of welding and is good
enough to be called a welder. i am a rod burner.
my0.02$ worth
R Fink
PA
At 12:51 PM 5/14/2007 +0000, you wrote:
>Has anyone had success welding grousers on their old dozer pads?
>
>I have an AC HD6G with worn pads. A previous owner had welded some
>on but most of the welds have not held and many have been lost.....
>I am knocking pad bolds off at an alarming rate due to lack of
>grousers... The grousers are the short type about 5/8 inch high...
>
>I know the pads have a high carbon content so they don't take very
>well to welding...
>
>Whats the best method, mig, stick, type of rod to use?
>
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