[AT] Welding Grousers...?

Tue May 15 03:42:53 PDT 2007

Ok,

A lot of great information. 

I think I will look into getting the real grousers.

I did a few sample tests last night.

I believe my stock grouser was 5/8 high when new? I will have to double check..

I Welded a 5/8 hex rod on one grouser, but, there still is about 1/2 inch of the old grouser left, so, the new hight with the hex rod is 3/4. 

I tried a piece of rebar, that brought it to about 5/8 high, but, it is thin...

I had a piece of 1/2 x 3/4 steel, when I laid that on the pad it looked perfect.... 

Had to dust off my Miller Bobcat... I bought it in 1999 after Hurricane Floyd, house generators were more than the bobcat so I bought the Bobcat... Battery was dead, charged it, and it started right up... I have 30 hours on it, most of the time was when I lent it out.. Anyway, I figure this track job is going to put some time on the machine....  I usually use a small mig for welding, but with this job I will use the Bobcat, 100% duty cycle... plus, it will probably be good to run it a little...

All I had was 6011, worked OK, but not great. Will stop by the welding shop and buy some 7018. 

Knocked out about 5 of the pad bolts that had their heads knocked off.. One pad was visibly loose...

I have another pad that is missing its side, and another that looks like its about to do the same thing... 

Anybody have a few extra HD6G pads? 

So much maintenance for a Dozer that gets about 10 hours a year of usage... But boy can it move some boulders!

Ever get overwhelmed with so much equipment to maintain...? There aren't enough hours in a minute.... 

Regards,

Will Powell

 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "Mike Reggie" <mrreg_99 at hotmail.com>
> 
>    Hey Richard, I'm here,  Yes, I've welded quite a few grousers, and I too 
> would suggest staying within the size and style parameters of what is called 
> out by the manufacturer. Don't forget, if the grousers are worn enough to 
> need replacement, the shoes have also been thinning especially at the edges. 
> As someone has mentioned, make sure the shoes are tight to the chain, if the 
> shoe is loose and a new grouser is installed it will worsen that problem, 
> and once the shoe gets loose enough to allow dirt in between the holes and 
> bolts and the holes elongate, the damage is done and you will not be able to 
> get the shoe tight on the chain, etc., etc....  As has been suggested, use 
> the proper shoe bolts to attach the shoes to the chain, they really really 
> are made for this specific purpose, and even though we may be personally 
> convinced the hardware store or even the supply house grade 8 bolt will do 
> the job just fine, it will begin to "yield" in a very short time. Also the 
> whole rebar idea is not a good one, it will wear away in no time. Though I 
> would not do it ever again, not too many years ago I was convinced by a 
> customer to re-grouser his old Deere track loader that he was using for a 
> skidder and he insisted I use the rebar he had . Well, against my better 
> judgment, I did as told, and welded the rebar on the shoes, and I remember 
> it actually wore almost to nothing in weeks! No kidding.
> 
>    The shoes will actually take to welding very well, I would however 
> strongly suggest the use of good dry low hydrogen electrodes such as 7018  
> and tack the grouser sufficiently before actually welding it. I personally 
> do not put the one I'm working on in a downhand position as I prefer to have 
> the slag kind of run away from me as I am welding, I try to position it into 
> more of slightly horizontal position, this also enables me to use the nose 
> position of the stinger and keep the rod in a constantly pointed position 
> which I always try to maintain when doing a lot of high rod consumption  
> jobs as it really saves the hand holding the stinger, both from a heat and 
> cramping perspective.
> 
>   I would also be OK with this being migged, assuming I could do it in a non 
> windy environment with  an s6 solid wire with shielding gas. I would not 
> feel comfortable about this being done with a flux-cored only non shielded 
> wire.  I would also suggest that if you were using regular electrodes to 
> avoid any mild steel electrodes such as 6013, etc. or iron powder type 
> electrodes such as 7014 or 7024 as they would be prone to cracking in this 
> application.
> 
>    As has also been mentioned this is a good job for honing, practicing, 
> improving your welding skills and techniques, but be warned that after a 
> while, it will become a nearly mindless task.
> 
>   These are just my thoughts on the subject and I hope they will be of help, 
> good luck with the project whatever you decide.
> Mike
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----Original Message Follows----
> From: Richard Fink Sr <nancydick at pennswoods.net>
> Reply-To: Antique tractor email discussion group 
> <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> To: Antique tractor email discussion group <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> Subject: Re: [AT] Welding Grousers...?
> Date: Mon, 14 May 2007 18:52:50 -0700
> 
> I think you will have some problems if the grousers are built up more
> than 1/2 in above the pads. From the little i have learned you don't
> want high grousers on a track loader it will tear up the frames or
> finals. It gives them to much traction. this is what i have been told
> by some older welders i have worked with.  Maybe Mike Reggie will
> read this and post a reply he does a lot of welding and is good
> enough to be called a welder. i am a rod burner.
> my0.02$ worth
> R Fink
> PA
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At 12:51 PM 5/14/2007 +0000, you wrote:
>  >Has anyone had success welding grousers on their old dozer pads?
>  >
>  >I have an AC HD6G with worn pads. A previous owner had welded some
>  >on but most of the welds have not held and many have been lost.....
>  >I am knocking pad bolds off at an alarming rate due to lack of
>  >grousers...  The grousers are the short type about 5/8 inch high...
>  >
>  >I know the pads have a high carbon content so they don't take very
>  >well to welding...
>  >
>  >Whats the best method, mig, stick, type of rod to use?
>  >
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