[AT] Rust magic?

[JParks]

Thanks to all for the quick responses.  I checked the web links provided,
and more, found some forums who had discussed this problem (not specifically
like some of you who had direct experiences with track).

I r-e-a-l-l-y like the water idea!  (cheap!)
My next step will be to fill a large loader bucket with water, after
pressure washing the track of course, and let them soak.  Since I have
access to a bucket this size, this would eliminate my concern about silt
from a pond.  Here is where my patience will be tested.  Can I leave them
alone for a couple of weeks without checking on progress?  Being the
sometime impatient person I am, I want magic to work faster.  If this is not
totally satisfactory, I may then replace the water with a 10% solution of
phosphoric acid as a second attempt.

If a 3rd attempt is required, I might try the molasses solution.  That kind
of makes sense too.

I will let you all know the results!

Thanks again

John Parks
Boise, Idaho

----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry D Goss" <rlgoss at evansville.net>
To: "Antique tractor email discussion group" <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2007 12:46 PM
Subject: Re: [AT] Rust magic?


> The commercial product I have seen for this purpose uses beet sugar
molasses
> mixed with water.  I think it's called "Rustbeeter".
>
> Larry
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Mike" <msm10301 at juno.com>
> To: <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2007 9:14 AM
> Subject: Re: [AT] Rust magic?
>
>
> > What about water mixed with molasses? Someone posted a while ago
> > about how this mixture would remove rust from an old engine block.
> > Mike
> >
> > -- "JParks" <jkparks at flash.net> wrote:
> > I am looking for any suggestions or recommendations for a real rust
> > buster.
> >
> > I have two sets of almost new TD6 track that sat on a machine for
> > years and
> > all the joints were either really stiff or frozen.
> >
> > I have soaked all the joints w/ diesel, driven over them several
> > times with
> > wheel loaders and even a track loader.  I presoaked them again with
> > diesel
> > and with the use of an excavator boom to hold each link down in
> > sequence,
> > and using the curl linkage, I hooked up to each link and was able to
> > work
> > each joint back and forth a little before moving down the chain to
> > the next
> > link.  It is still too tight!
> >
> > I talked to an old (like me) crawler man who has run a track shop for
> > decades (and he has "seen-it-all") and he does not think I should set
> > them
> > on fire.  He has run across track like this before and he could not
> > even
> > dismantle them without ruining or busting some of the individual
> > links.
> >
> > What liquid rust breaker on the market will really work (vs. what is
> > simply
> > marketed and does not work)!?
> >
> > Thanks for any help.
> >
> > John Parks
> > Boise, ID
> >
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > AT mailing list
> > http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
> >
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > AT mailing list
> > http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
> >
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.5/791 - Release Date: 5/6/2007
9:07 AM
>