[AT] Engine flushing etc.

[Dean Van Peursem]

 I'd like to offer a slightly different point of view from a JD perspective.
If you are able obtain a copy of a JD Operator's manual from the 40's and
50's era you will find a section where JD recommends the use of Kerosene to
flush the engine. The procedure is explained quite well.  I have followed
that procedure quite often and have never damaged any engine components that
I am aware of. 

However, I am sure that JD assumed this procedure would be used on a tractor
that was a working tractor on an active farm operation with some semblance
of PM. We are quite often not dealing with that kind of existing
environment. There may have been years of inadequate maintenance performed
on the engine and then may have set unused for years. I have scooped
handfuls of sludge out of an engine compartment. I would never flush an
engine in that condition with any kind of flushing procedure until I had
manually cleaned the inside of the engine to the best of my ability. Then
pour more cleaning solution into the crankcase and clean it again. Including
removing and cleaning any oil line and mesh filter I could get to. Then
install a brand new filter and add the appropriate amount of cleaning
solution and only turn the engine over with the starter until the oil
pressure registers "normal" for a short period of time. Then completely
drain the system. Hand clean again inside the crankcase. And replace the
filter. 

Now if one feels they have gotten most of the sludge and garbage out, then
just fill the crankcase with the required amount and weight of detergent
oil. With just a few running hours, at appropriate operating temperature
(Very Important), the inside of the engine will be close to clean as you are
ever going to get it. Then change the oil and filter one more time. Today's
detergent oil is quite amazing and effective. 

Just my $0.02 worth. 


Dean Van Peursem
Snohomish, WA

-----Original Message-----
From: at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
[mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com] On Behalf Of Skip Cleveland
Sent: Sunday, June 24, 2007 5:38 PM
To: Antique tractor email discussion group
Subject: Re: [AT] Engine flushing etc.

Here is how it would work for me if I tried it, which I won't. Dump in
kerosene and out comes all the filth, heads for the filter and pluggs it
straight up, bypass opens and dirt then goes on to  machine the engine to
the next three over sizes.

Skip
----- Original Message -----
From: "H. L. Staples" <hlstaples at mcloudteleco.com>
To: <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Sent: Sunday, June 24, 2007 6:51 PM
Subject: Re: [AT] Engine flushing etc.


> Bearing surfaces is where the oil goes right after the filter, so it 
> should
> be as clean as the filter can get it.  Hopefully the washing takes place 
> on
> the way back to the pan.
>
>
>
> On 6/24/2007 1:36:10 PM, Skip Cleveland (skipcleveland at bellsouth.net) 
> wrote:
>> Motor oil can hold quite a bit of grime in suspension, away from any >
> bearing > surfaces until it can get it to the filter. Do you think that a
> thin > liquid > like kerosene might make dirt into sort of a liquid
> sandpaper? > Just a thought. > Skip > ----- Original Message ----- > From:
> Francis Robinson" <robinson at svs.net> > To: "Antique tractor email 
> discussion
> group" <at at lists.antique-tractor. > com> > Sent: Sunday, June 24, 2007 
> 1:58
> PM > Subject: [AT] Engine flushing etc. > > > > I have always been a 
> little
> concerned about running an engine with K- > 1 > > in it but it is probably
> fine as long as you don't get carried away and > > run > > it too long.
> Surely it is better for an engine than the dirt... I have > > drained
> engines and then poured K-1 through it to flush out the stuff that > >
> settles to the bottom. I have also put in about a gallon and ran it very >

>  >
> briefly. I never really felt that it hurt anything but I still had a > >
> nagging
> H. L. Staples
> McLoud, Oklahoma
> USA
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