[AT] Brake band material

[John Wilkens]

Might work but I think I'll try John's idea first.    And, I've got 
lots of old drill bits to work with and no Forstner bits.  Thanks for 
the ideas!     John W.



At 07:12 PM 07/05/2007, you wrote:
>Would a Forstner bit do the job?  Make that the first operation and then do
>the through hole after the counterbore is done and there is a centering hole
>in place?  Just a suggestion.
>
>Larry
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "John Hall" <jthall at worldnet.att.net>
>To: "Antique tractor email discussion group" <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
>Sent: Thursday, July 05, 2007 7:43 PM
>Subject: Re: [AT] Brake band material
>
>
> > By straight I meant I put absolutely no relief on the cutting edge. It
> > would never cut metal but works OK in the brake band material. My
> > intention
> > was to keep the tool from grabbing and sucking into the workpiece.  One
> > other note, I undercut the pilot with the cutoff wheel--kind of hard to
> > get
> > a cutting edge all the way up to the pilot otherwise. If you can use
> > countersunk rivets, I'd go that route.  Even if they are an odd angle you
> > don't have a countersink for you could sharpen a drill to the correct
> > angle.
> > Picking up a drilled hole without a pilot may get to be a pain.
> >
> > John
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "John Wilkens" <jwilkens at eoni.com>
> > To: "Antique tractor email discussion group"
> > <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> > Sent: Thursday, July 05, 2007 7:04 PM
> > Subject: Re: [AT] Brake band material
> >
> >
> >> Yeah, I think I can do that.  Hadn't thought of using two plates and
> >> a pilot.  One thing I can't visualize  is the "straight cutting
> >> edge"  you mention.   Thanks!   John W.
> >>
> >>
> >> At 01:46 PM 07/05/2007, you wrote:
> >>>You asked how, so here is what I did. Fair warning, I'm a machinist so
> >>>it's
> >>>not quite as complicated or time consuming as it might seem.
> >>>  I wanted to use the same type of rivets as possible on my tractor so I
> >>>needed a counterbore. Some rivets are countersunk, and not all are at the
> >>>same angle. Anway I made a counterbore tool out of a drill bit using a
> >>>pedestal grinder, lathe and dremel tool. I roughed the end of the tool to
> >>>serve as the pilot on the pedestal grinder. Then I put it in the lathe
> >>>and
> >>>clamped my dremel with a cut off wheel in the tool post. I turned the
> >>>lathe
> >>>and the dremel on and started grinding. Instead of putting any relief
> >>>angle
> >>>on the tool I left the cutting edge straight--since I would be doing this
> >>>in
> >>>the drill press I didn't want it to grab. I set up two plates on the
> >>>drill
> >>>press. The bottom one had a hole about the size of the pilot. The top
> >>>plate
> >>>was made larger to clear the tool. I set a gap between the 2 plates about
> >>>.010" thicker than the material so I could slide it thru. I cut the drill
> >>>press off between holes so I could use the pilot to line up the lining.
> >>>Worked great--hole depth didn't vary .005". If I'd have thought about it
> >>>earlier in the week I would have made the tool at work--it would have
> >>>been
> >>>faster but not near as much fun!
> >>>
> >>>Oh yeah, I clamped the lining to the bands and drilled all the holes
> >>>first
> >>>with a hand drill.
> >>>
> >>>John
> >>>----- Original Message -----
> >>>From: "John Wilkens" <jwilkens at eoni.com>
> >>>To: "Antique tractor email discussion group"
> >>><at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> >>>Sent: Wednesday, July 04, 2007 11:59 AM
> >>>Subject: Re: [AT] Brake band material
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> >  Can you tell me the procedure for
> >>> > countersinking the lining for the rivets?     John W.
> >>> >
> >>> >
> >>>
> >>>
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> >>
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> >>
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