[Farmall] Difficult F14

relong at dybb.com relong at dybb.com
Tue May 9 07:33:59 PDT 2006


It's going to be my parade tractor.  So now I've got to get it looking good. 
It's got 40" tires on the rear and one is bad.  It still holds air, but the
tread is falling off it.  I'm trying to decide whether to bite the bullet and
buy the expensive new ones or keep looking for another used one.  I’ve also got
a Farmall Cub, an H, and a 560, which is my working tractor.

Ross





Quoting John Hall <jthall at worldnet.att.net>:

> Now what are you going to do with it? Show it, play with it, take it all
> apart and paint it or abandon it under a shed and drag another rusty hulk in
> the shop? (Personally I like the last choice!!)
>
> John
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ross Long" <relong at dybb.com>
> To: "'Farmall/IHC mailing list'" <farmall at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> Sent: Sunday, May 07, 2006 8:27 PM
> Subject: RE: [Farmall] Difficult F14
>
>
> >I got a bottle of Marvel Mystery oil and pour some in the gas and the rest
> > in the oil.  It worked, the valves are not sticking anymore.  The F14 is a
> > live (finally).
> >
> > Ross
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: farmall-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
> > [mailto:farmall-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com] On Behalf Of John Hall
> > Sent: Sunday, May 07, 2006 5:47 AM
> > To: Farmall/IHC mailing list
> > Subject: Re: [Farmall] Difficult F14
> >
> > Marvel Mystery oil usually works fine. The dealer dad worked for gave that
> > advice out often--especially for Cub Cadets.  Adding 2cycle oil would
> > probalby do the same thing.
> >
> >
> > Here is my concern. An engine with a lot of hours that has sticking valves
> > is one thing. An engine that has just been rebuilt  is another. You may
> > need
> >
> > to pull the head and have the guides honed out some. Personally I would
> > try
> > the M&M oil and run lots of $3 a gallon gas thru it first. You might spend
> > $15 but if the problem clears up it'll be cheaper than sending the head to
> > the machine shop.
> >
> > One other thing. If the stem to guide clearnce is a little tight and your
> > valve springs are weak, that could contribute to the problem. If the head
> > has to come off, have the machine shop check the spring, you may need to
> > replace some of them.
> >
> > John
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Mike Sloane" <mikesloane at verizon.net>
> > To: "Farmall/IHC mailing list" <farmall at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> > Sent: Saturday, May 06, 2006 6:11 PM
> > Subject: Re: [Farmall] Difficult F14
> >
> >
> >> The advice I was always given was to use Marvel Mystery Oil. I don't know
> >> if it would work, but it can't hurt.
> >>
> >> Mike
> >>
> >> Ross Long wrote:
> >>> I found out what the problems was, it was sticking valves.  They seem
> >>> real
> >>> loose when not running, but I started it without the valve cover on and
> >>> sprayed wd-40 on the valves when it started to miss and that stopped the
> >>> miss.  A fee minutes after I spray the valves it will start to miss
> >>> again.  Anyone have any ideas how to get these valves not to stick.  It
> >>> was
> >>> overhauled and the head was redone shortly before it was stored for a
> >>> number
> >>> of years.  They must be a little too tight.
> >>>
> >>> Ross
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> -----Original Message-----
> >>> From: farmall-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
> >>> [mailto:farmall-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com] On Behalf Of John
> >>> Hall
> >>> Sent: Friday, May 05, 2006 5:52 PM
> >>> To: Farmall/IHC mailing list
> >>> Subject: Re: [Farmall] Difficult F14
> >>>
> >>> Looking back at the original post, you said you are definetly losing #4
> >>> followed by an intermittent 1 and 3, correct? I can't see how that could
> >>> be fuel related nor could it be the mag unless it was in the cap, wires
> >>> or plugs. Try this next time it goes to missing--check the fire at the
> >>> plugs by
> >>>
> >>> grounding a screwdriver to the frame. You need about 3/16 to 1/4 spark
> >>> jump.
> >>>
> >>> If that checks out then spray some WD-40 in the intake with it running
> >>> and see if it helps.
> >>>
> >>> As far as the fuel pump goes I agree with everything that has been said.
> >>> I have had problems with the check valves, trash, and a worn out
> >>> pushrod.
> >
> >>> And
> >>>
> >>> a busted diaphragm on another tractor with a similair pump. But in all
> >>> of
> >
> >>> those cases the tractor wouldn't run at all.
> >>>
> >>> One final thought, is the intake manifold tight? You did say the tractor
> >>> had
> >>>
> >>> been recently rebuilt didn't you? You may be fighting bad mechanic work
> >>> from
> >>>
> >>> the last guy.
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> Just some thoughts and ramblings.
> >>>
> >>> John Hall _______________________________________________
> >>> Farmall mailing list
> >>> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/farmall
> >>>
> >>> _______________________________________________
> >>> Farmall mailing list
> >>> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/farmall
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >> --
> >> Mike Sloane
> >> Allamuchy NJ
> >> <mikesloane at verizon.net>
> >> Website: <www.geocities.com/mikesloane>
> >> Images: <www.fotki.com/mikesloane>
> >>
> >> We cannot defend freedom abroad by deserting it at home.
> >> - Edward R. Murrow, journalist (1908-1965)
> >>
> >>
> >> --
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> >>
> >> _______________________________________________
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> >>
> >
> >
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