[Steam-engine] Valves seats

Fri Mar 17 09:55:33 PST 2006

Makes sense Jim.  Possibly an aluminum oxide burr like shown on page 2512 of 
www.mcmaster.com.

   Well we'll see what I come up with on the Lunk water glass today.

  Thanks Jim
Rick

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "James Mackessy" <jmackess at twcny.rr.com>
To: "Steam-engine mailing list" <steam-engine at lists.stationary-engine.com>
Sent: Friday, March 17, 2006 8:59 AM
Subject: Re: [Steam-engine] Valves seats

> Hi Rick;
>      Smacking the ball into the seat works well on freshly machined seats,
> but I
> wouldn't try it to restore an old seat unless it was freshly cut first. 
> The
> ball you
> use for the "smacking", of course, becomes junk. Nicholson File Co. used 
> to
> make a ball end rotary burr on a 1/4" shank that could be used to put a
> fresh
> cut on a 1/4" diameter ball check, then smack it. Use it between your
> fingers,
> don't try it under power. You only need to cut until you can see a ring of
> fresh
> metal. Under power, you'll do a lot more than that, if things don't get
> caught
> and eat the insides of the valve first. I have tried a drill press, but
> again, I like
> the control you get cutting slowly by hand.
> Best Regards;
> Jim Mackessy
> Camillus Steam Project
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Richard Strobel" <Richard_Strobel7 at msn.com>
> To: "Steam-engine mailing list" <steam-engine at lists.stationary-engine.com>
> Sent: Friday, March 17, 2006 8:27 AM
> Subject: Re: [Steam-engine] Valves seats
>
>
> > Hi Blake...yea I'm familiar with the new style valve re-seaters,  just
> > wondering if yours is an ole tool and what it looks like.
> >
> >   I've had some success tinning the sealing surfaces with solder.  Also
> > thinking about using a very thin annealed copper washer on some of the
> other
> > applications.
> >
> >   Disassembled the Lunk. water glass gauge yesterday and the check balls
> and
> > seats do need some attention.  I'll replace the balls with new.  Plan is
> to
> > use a sacrificial ball for lapping using the finest lapping compound 
> > that
> I
> > can find.  I've also heard of smacking the ball into it's seat.  This 
> > I'll
> > probably try on a very bad valve although it makes sense to me.
> >
> >   Also on another note, are all three tailstocks/tailpipes the same on a
> > penberty injector?
> >
> >
> > Thanks fer lookin'
> > RickinMt.
> >
> >
> >
> > > A friend of mine had a tool to re-cut valve seats. Had different
> > > cutters for different styles and angles of valves. It worked great
> > > and made them work like new. I borrowed it and did all mine.
> > >
> > > Blake
> > >
> > > On Mar 16, 2006, at 8:01 AM, Dan Donaldson wrote:
> > >
> > > > Rick Strobel asked this in anouther thread
> > > >
> > > >    "How do you folks get old brass hand valves, check valves and
> > > > such to shut
> > > > off tight?  I've tried some lapping compound without good results.
> > > > Trycocks
> > > > I've repoured the lead/babbit pots and have had good luck doing
> > > > that.  The
> > > > brass to brass sealing surfaces are kinda kickin' my butt tho.  I
> > > > don't use
> > > > gate valves on steam, er I try not to."
> > > >
> > > >    I am curious as to how you all remedy these leaks as well.  I
> > > > have trouble with globe checks and globe valves leaking to the
> > > > injector making it difficult to operate.
> > > >
> > > > Dan Donaldson
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Richard Strobel"
> > > > <Richard_Strobel7 at msn.com>
> > > > To: "Steam-engine mailing list" <steam-engine at lists.stationary-
> > > > engine.com>
> > > > Sent: Wednesday, March 15, 2006 8:52 AM
> > > > Subject: Re: [Steam-engine] Lunk Jr. now rebuilding hand valves and
> > > > such
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >> yea..thanks guys.  We got into buffing a year or so ago and it's a
> > > >> nice way to pass the time on a cold winter day.  We weren't sure
> > > >> at first who made this displacement oiler until we buffed it and
> > > >> it brought out the barely readable " Lunkenheimer Jr."
> > > >>
> > > >>  Regarding the glass tube, I reckon we're all on the same sheet of
> > > >> music. Thanks for your input.  We also have a Lunk. water glass
> > > >> and was surprised to see OEM check balls behind both handvalves.
> > > >> Which now brings up a topic I've been wanting to ask about.
> > > >>
> > > >>  How do you folks get old brass hand valves, check valves and such
> > > >> to shut off tight?  I've tried some lapping compound without good
> > > >> results. Trycocks I've repoured the lead/babbit pots and have had
> > > >> good luck doing that.  The brass to brass sealing surfaces are
> > > >> kinda kickin' my butt tho. I don't use gate valves on steam, er I
> > > >> try not to.
> > > >>
> > > >> Regards
> > > >> RickinMt.
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>> Looks like Rick has polished his socks off.  I agree
> > > >>> with Lawrence. Go with the 5/8" tube.  Just get the
> > > >>> right size rubbers that fit the glass and fit in the
> > > >>> packing gland.  How big is the hole in the packing
> > > >>> nut?  How big is the ID of the packing hole?  I'm not
> > > >>> sure about the "no wrenches" policy for sight glasses.
> > > >>>  Try hand tight first but you may need to use a
> > > >>> wrench.  (I would be afraid to put a wrench on
> > > >>> something that pretty)  Lawrence made a good point
> > > >>> about messing with these things while they have
> > > >>> pressure on them.  I think that those fellows should
> > > >>> have turned off the valves to the glass before
> > > >>> attempting to tighten the nuts.  The instructors at
> > > >>> steam school advised us the never try to work on pipes
> > > >>> with live steam on them for this very reason.
> > > >>>
> > > >>> --- Lawrence Swanz <LSwanz at superioriron.com> wrote:
> > > >>>
> > > >>> > Rick,
> > > >>> >
> > > >>> > I can't hardly believe that the before picture could
> > > >>> > actually be the same lubricator as pictured in the
> > > >>> > second photo.  If they are the same, then you did an
> > > >>> > outstanding job cleaning that unit up.  As for the
> > > >>> > glass, I would say that a 5/8" O.D. tube is the
> > > >>> > ticket.  Don't know about whether to put a wrench to
> > > >>> > the packing nut is acceptable or not, but if you had
> > > >>> > to stop any leaks, and I'm sure this goes without
> > > >>> > say, but be darn careful as to not over tighten and
> > > >>> > crack the glass.  I watched someone do this on a
> > > >>> > water glass and didn't find that magic spot.  It
> > > >>> > wasn't long and the glass exploded and they did the
> > > >>> > jump of joy on the gang plate as they tried to get
> > > >>> > the valves shut off while being sprayed with hot
> > > >>> > steamy water.  Guess this is another good argument
> > > >>> > for replacing your water column with a new style
> > > >>> > that has a ball bearing in it for self sealing
> > > >>> > should the glass break.  That is yet for another
> > > >>> > discussion.  On a side note, I liked the white socks
> > > >>> > that got caught in the pho!
> > > >>> >  to.  You had them there so we could identify actual
> > > >>> > size of the lubricator, right! (Haa Haa).
> > > >>> >
> > > >>> > Lawrence
> > > >> _______________________________________________
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> > > >
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