[Steam-engine] Pouring Bearings

[Andy glines]

Thanks for the Babbitt tips.  I will probably get to
pour the caps this weekend.  I will let you know how
things turn out!

--- Stacey Freeman <staceyf at nctv.com> wrote:

> Andy, When I pour Babbitt, I build my forms around
> the shafts from plywood
> and seal the shaft and shells to the plywood with
> 100% clear silicone
> (bathroom tub seal).  The silicone will not burn or
> release and during
> preheat, if the plywood catches on fire, that will
> not be a problem.  As far
> as determining the heat of the shaft, I heat it to
> the point where I can't
> put my had on it and hold it there.  I use Pam to
> release the Babbitt from
> the shaft and that works well.  As far as the
> temperature of the Babbitt:  I
> use a sugar pine strip of wood that I stick in the
> molten Babbitt and pull
> it back out.  When the stick scorches dark brown it
> is hot enough. 
> 
> Just the way we do it.
> Stacey Freeman
> www.freemansmill.com
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
> steam-engine-bounces at lists.stationary-engine.com
>
[mailto:steam-engine-bounces at lists.stationary-engine.com]
> On Behalf Of Andy
> glines
> Sent: Thursday, March 09, 2006 8:45 AM
> To: Steam-engine mailing list
> Subject: Re: [Steam-engine] Pouring Bearings
> 
> Looks like I will have to respond to myself.  I was
> really hoping to hear
> from some of you regarding my questions about babbit
> temp and shell preheat.
> I am still trying to figure out how to preheat the
> shaft with the bearing
> cap in place.  Any tips that you folks care to share
> with the novice?  
> 
> --- Andy glines <pioneersop96 at yahoo.com> wrote:
> 
> > I took the plunge and tried my hand at pouring
> bearings Sunday 
> > afternoon.  I started with the shaft that drives
> the wheels because 
> > alignment isn't critical on the Huber design.  So
> far, I have only 
> > poured one half of the two bearings.  I have
> learned a few things and 
> > now have a few questions.  I learned that I can't
> trust Babbitrite to 
> > stay stuck to the shaft and shell unassisted.  Dad
> was preheating 
> > while I melted  babbit.  When the shaft and shell
> got good and hot the 
> > Babbitrite fell off.  We were able to secure more
> putty without losing 
> > preheat. This time the putty was secured with wire
> and plumper's tape.
> > The bread pan I placed under the shell turned out
> to be a very good 
> > thing when a plug in an oil hole blew out.  The
> pan caught the babbit 
> > and it was easily recovered.  I am using the book
> "How I Pour Babbit 
> > Bearings" by Gingery for reference.  Using the
> book's suggestions the 
> > shell was preheated until a piece of solder just
> started to melt and 
> > the shaft heated to about 300 deg.  I am using
> tin-based babbit so I 
> > heated it until my wooden stir stick caught fire.
> > The
> > cooled product looks pretty good.  The ends of the
> new bearing are 
> > nice and shiny but it is dull gray near the center
> where the cooling 
> > was a bit slower.  I think that I may have been a
> little hot on my 
> > preheat and my babbit and plan to back off on
> temperature a little 
> > when I pour the caps.  One thing in my book
> confuses me a little.  The 
> > book tells us that tin-based babbit should be
> poured hotter than 
> > lead-based.  I thought that lead has a higher
> melting point than 
> > tin???  Is the book backwards?  We used a propane
> weed burner for 
> > preheat and found that it works very well.  I'm
> getting ready to pour 
> > the caps.
> > I will shim the caps and secure them to the top
> casting.  I can 
> > preheat the shell OK but how do I
> > preheat the shaft with the bearing cap in place?  
>  
> > 
> > Andy Glines
> > Evansville, IN
> > 
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> 
> 
> Andy Glines
> Evansville, IN
> 
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Andy Glines
Evansville, IN

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