[AT] A long shot--Wisconsin part Brazing and cast iron

[Cecil Bearden]

On some very large differential castings I have had excellent results using 
a carbon arc torch.  It heats a large area fast.

Cecil in Okla


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mike Reggie" <mrreg_99 at hotmail.com>
To: <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Sent: Friday, June 30, 2006 3:26 AM
Subject: Re: [AT] A long shot--Wisconsin part Brazing and cast iron


>
>
>
>  Sure John, The method I use after I've sanded and cleaned the parts is to 
> apply the flux,I prefer the paste type, usually with an acid swab to all 
> the areas that will be brazed, the same way you would apply soldering 
> paste to copper plumbing pipes you are about to sweat.  I always have a 
> tub of brazing flux on hand,[I always get the white flux so it can also be 
> used for silver slodering as well] and it doesn't matter if sits around 
> and gets old and dries up, all you have to do is add water and mix it up, 
> I actually tend to over-thin it so it spreads well and is easier to get in 
> all the joint areas.
> I always pre flux the parts weather I'm using the flux covered rods or the 
> bare ones, the only difference being that as I'm flowing the rod into the 
> joint, I'd be periodically dipping the bare rod into the flux. I guess the 
> powdered flux is ok too, just not as easy to use. I've heard older guys 
> talking about using ordinary borax as flux, but I've always had good 
> success with the way I do it so I  stick with it, and that is the method I 
> use no matter what the materials are, stainless, brass, cast iron, steel, 
> copper, etc. In fact, this very afternoon I had to  machine out and 
> counterbore a cast iron pump endbell, turn and fit a stainless steel 
> sleeve and braze it in, and I did it as I describe above  with very 
> satisfactory results.
>
>  Again, try to keep in mind that what is happening in the joint is 
> dependent upon capillary action more akin to sweating plumbing pipes, 
> nothing like gas welding muffler pipes.
>
> I hope this helps ....... Mike
>
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>
> ----Original Message Follows----
> From: John Wilkens <jwilkens at eoni.com>
> Reply-To: Antique tractor email discussion group 
> <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> To: Antique tractor email discussion group <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> Subject: Re: [AT] A long shot--Wisconsin part
> Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2006 08:30:05 -0700
>
> Thanks for the information Mike.  Hope you won't mind one more 
> question..... I've only just used the flux-covered brazing rod.  What 
> method would you use to use "plenty of good flux?"  How and when do you 
> apply it?  Is it the usual powered flux that you would dip your hot brass 
> rod in?    John
>
>
>
>
> At 11:52 PM 06/28/2006, you wrote:
>
>>  John:  I might be able to offer some information on the rubbing of the 
>> carbon stick on the weld.
>>
>>If you've ever had a nice fresh cast iron weld crack on you, you will have 
>>noticed that it doesn't crack on the weld itself, it cracks on either side 
>>of the weld.  without getting into all the science as to why that 
>>happens,[I've tried for years to understand it] it is basically because 
>>the heat of the weld draws the carbon from the surrounding part of the 
>>metal to the heat zone of the weld, and causes it to crack. So the theory 
>>was that the carbon would help to fill in at the spots it was being pulled 
>>from, this is also the reason for the pre and post heating, and burying in 
>>sand or lime, etc.
>>
>>  I do all kinds of welding on an almost daily basis, and a part of that 
>> is sometimes cast iron, some of it with stick, and some of it with 
>> heli-arc, I dislike it very much, there have been really great products 
>> developed in the last 20 or so years for cast iron welding, but its whole 
>> purpose is for
>>repair, I have never seen it as a means of normal cast iron joinery. No 
>>mater how much I've done, or what I see others far more talented and 
>>informed than myself do, I just can't seem to get comfortable with the 
>>whole idea of cast iron welding.
>>
>>That being said, my preferred method for the repair of cast iron is 
>>brazing, be it with brass, silver, or with cast iron filler, it just seems 
>>to "work" better. Just remember, clean, clean, clean, and plenty of 
>>quality flux, and of course never forget that brazing is dependent on 
>>capillary action, it is not a soft weld.
>>
>>  This is just my opinion, I hope it is of some help   ........ Mike
>>
>>
>
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>                    In the wide-open spaces of NE Oregon
>
>
>
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