[AJD] howdy again from the desert

wwwayne johnson wjohnson at bigriver.net
Sat Jun 24 18:17:10 PDT 2006


I always use JD paint now.  I've tried others in the past and found better 
results with color and cover with JD.  I always use hardener in all coats. 
For one thing, it ddries a lot faster.  I paint all parts and disassembled 
tractor, put it all together and paint again.  Always paint yellow first, 
less masking.  The paint is a cheap process considering what it took to get 
it ready to paint.  I get enough gloss with the hardener so don't use clear 
coat.  I've seen some problem develop with it(like pealing).
Merle Wayne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bill Brueck" <b2 at chooka.net>
To: "'Antique John Deere mailing list'" 
<antique-johndeere at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Sent: Saturday, June 24, 2006 8:13 AM
Subject: RE: [AJD] howdy again from the desert


> I've been lurking here to see what the folks who really know would say.
> That not taking place, I'll jump in with my 2 cents worth (arguably a
> bargain) and maybe that'll dislodge folks who know better than I.
>
> I stick with John Deere paint from the dealership.  You adjust for the
> atmospheric conditions by the reducer you purchase.  My local body and
> fender guy says he uses JD paint for his tractor jobs and then adds a 
> clear
> coat if the customer wants the high shine.  Personally I don't like the 
> high
> shine unless one has the skills to really straighten out the sheet metal 
> so
> it looks good.  At my level of expertise in that area the shine doesn't
> flatter my work.  And I add hardener to the paint.
>
> For priming, I prime as I go on the assembly, that slows the rust down in
> these parts when I don't get back to working on the project for a few 
> weeks.
> I've thought of maybe next time priming and then rattle can painting green
> as I go, that way I won't have to be as careful to get to all the odd
> corners when I finish coat.
>
> And I run my tractor quite a bit, even work it if I can find an excuse to 
> do
> so, before that finish coat.  I usually find a couple of leaks that way so 
> I
> can fix them before the final paint job.
>
> I think this is one of those cases where you can make the right decision, 
> or
> you can make your decision right.
>
> Either way, have fun!
>
>>
> Bill Brueck (brick)
> Chatfield, MN, USA
>
> Confusion is a higher state of knowledge than ignorance.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: antique-johndeere-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
> [mailto:antique-johndeere-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com] On Behalf Of
> Quartzsite Charlie
> Sent: Friday, June 23, 2006 12:45 AM
> To: antique-johndeere at lists.antique-tractor.com
> Subject: [AJD] howdy again from the desert
>
> Howdy again guys..  well, seems a lot of us read this, most of us just 
> don't
> have need to blab often.. However.. I am doing my first restoration .//./
> 1949 John Deere B, and am about at the stage to start priming...  Now, the
> books say one thing, a local body man says another, and an ole retired J D
> mechanic says something else..regarding primer and paint.  I am told that 
> we
> now have a water based primer, water based acrylic enamel, and that they 
> are
> better than the usual stuff...  another says no...  Sure would like some
> thoughts from some of the restorers  reading this... and one thing to
> consider... here in SW AriDzona, our morning temp is near 80, afternoons
> will be in range of 105 to 115 for the next 2+ months...  thanks Q Charlie
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