[AT] A long shot--Wisconsin part

[John Hall]

I had a really large and really greasy transmission housing to weld up this 
past winter. I sent it to an automotive machine shop so it could be cleaned 
in their vat. For preheating I used a kerosene "torpedo" heater followed by 
a rosebud. You could still see oil bubbling up in places. Then again this 
casting was of very poor quality. I'd start welding and the smallest of 
cracks would turn into a large void.

John Hall
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mike Reggie" <mrreg_99 at hotmail.com>
To: <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Sent: Saturday, July 01, 2006 3:23 AM
Subject: Re: [AT] A long shot--Wisconsin part


>
>
> Yes indeed Farmer,  something I have done when brazing very oily or greasy 
> cast iron, is to clean as thoroughly as possible, and then pour lacquer 
> thinner on the area to be brazed and brush it vigorously with a wire brush 
> and rinse again with the lacquer thinner, then light the torch and pass it 
> over the area so the remaining thinner that has seeped into the cracks and 
> hidden areas will flair up, it seems to pull some of the residual oils out 
> of the joint area, depending on how oily the pieces are, I may repeat this 
> a few times, and I've found this really helps, then I would flux the parts 
> and proceed as usual with the repair.
>
>   Mike
>
>
> ----Original Message Follows----
> From: "Indiana Robinson" <robinson at svs.net>
> Reply-To: Antique tractor email discussion group 
> <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> To: Antique tractor email discussion group <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> Subject: Re: [AT] A long shot--Wisconsin part
> Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2006 12:09:50 -0400
>
> On 29 Jun 2006 at 23:32, DAVIESW739 at aol.com wrote:
>
> > In a message dated 6/29/2006 12:16:02 A.M.  Pacific Daylight Time,
> > mrreg_99 at hotmail.com writes:
> > That being said, my  preferred method for the repair of cast iron is
> brazing,
> > be it with brass,  silver, or with cast iron filler, it just seems to
> "work"
> > better. Just  remember, clean, clean, clean, and plenty of quality flux,
> and
> > of course  never forget that brazing is dependent on capillary action, 
> > it
> is
> > not a soft  weld.
> >
> > This is just my opinion, I hope it is of some  help   ........ Mike
> >
> > Mike I agree with you on this I have  repaired lots of cast iron and 
> > cast
> > steel parts with Brazing or Silver solder.  The later being the 
> > strongest
> and
> > used on parts that need the extra stregth.
> >
> > Walt Davies
>
>
>
> One application where it seems to help to braze the parts instead
> of stick welding them is when you are working on parts that are fully
> soaked in grease or oil. Since you heat the whole part up quite hot it 
> seems
> to cook the oil out better and it is maybe easier to spread the weld out 
> over a
>  wider surface on some parts. Old corn picker sprockets jump to mind...
>  ugh! They were often porous crappy cast. Made out of old stoves and
> bath tubs I guess.    <(^¿^)>
>
>
>
> --
> "farmer"
>
> I try to take one day at a time but sometimes several days attack
> me at once.   <(^¿^)>
>
> Refurbished Shopsmith's
> Good used SPT's
> http://www.indiana-robinson.0catch.com/
>
>
> Francis Robinson
> Central Indiana, USA
> robinson at svs.net
>
>
>
>