[AT] A long shot--Wisconsin part

[Cecil Bearden]

Mig welding Cast Iron has worked for me also.  If the cast iron has been 
heated or should I say heated treated then it will become ductile iron.  You 
can weld ductile iron.  A fresh casting is considered white cast if it has 
cooled rapidly in the mold.  This is the reason that you can't hardly 
machine wheel weights, barbell weights, or the large old chain sprockets. 
These were not heated and allowed the iron to change states from white cast 
to ductile.    Since it costs for heat treating, cheap castings are brittle 
as they have not been heat treated.  Ductile iron is made by heating white 
cast iron for a long period of time until the grain structure redefines. 
Some of the new methods for block degreasing is to put the block in a high 
heat oven for a few hours to bake the grease and crap off them.  I wonder if 
this changes the grain structure of the steel.

Whew!  It has been 35 years since I had steel composition and heat treating 
in college.  Went thru a lot of cobwebs to get there too.!!!!!

Cecil in OKla

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Richard Fink Sr" <nancydick at pennswoods.net>
To: "Antique tractor email discussion group" <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Sent: Saturday, July 01, 2006 7:33 AM
Subject: Re: [AT] A long shot--Wisconsin part



Mike would a motor block on say a tractor be cast iron? Or cast steel. I
welded one a little while back and due to the place it needed welded i
could not get in with nie rod. I ground it out in a V [ grinding was dark
red]and tried some thing new to me. Turned my mig up highest setting.
Welded it and it appeared to weld in very good it was just mild steel wire.
As you know i am no welder but can stick things together now and then. And
i have never used any thing except borax as a flux on bare brass welding 
wire.
R Fink
PA




At 03:23 AM 7/1/2006 -0400, you wrote:


>Yes indeed Farmer,  something I have done when brazing very oily or greasy 
>cast iron, is to clean as thoroughly as possible, and then pour lacquer 
>thinner on the area to be brazed and brush it vigorously with a wire brush 
>and rinse again with the lacquer thinner, then light the torch and pass it 
>over the area so the remaining thinner that has seeped into the cracks and 
>hidden areas will flair up, it seems to pull some of the residual oils out 
>of the joint area, depending on how oily the pieces are, I may repeat this 
>a few times, and I've found this really helps, then I would flux the parts 
>and proceed as usual with the repair.
>
>   Mike
>
>
>----Original Message Follows----
>From: "Indiana Robinson" <robinson at svs.net>
>Reply-To: Antique tractor email discussion group 
><at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
>To: Antique tractor email discussion group <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
>Subject: Re: [AT] A long shot--Wisconsin part
>Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2006 12:09:50 -0400
>
>On 29 Jun 2006 at 23:32, DAVIESW739 at aol.com wrote:
>
> > In a message dated 6/29/2006 12:16:02 A.M.  Pacific Daylight Time,
> > mrreg_99 at hotmail.com writes:
> > That being said, my  preferred method for the repair of cast iron is
> brazing,
> > be it with brass,  silver, or with cast iron filler, it just seems to
> "work"
> > better. Just  remember, clean, clean, clean, and plenty of quality
> flux, and
> > of course  never forget that brazing is dependent on capillary action,
> it is
> > not a soft  weld.
> >
> > This is just my opinion, I hope it is of some  help   ........ Mike
> >
> > Mike I agree with you on this I have  repaired lots of cast iron and 
> > cast
> > steel parts with Brazing or Silver solder.  The later being the
> strongest and
> > used on parts that need the extra stregth.
> >
> > Walt Davies
>
>
>
>         One application where it seems to help to braze the parts instead
>of stick welding them is when you are working on parts that are fully
>soaked in grease or oil. Since you heat the whole part up quite hot it 
>seems
>to cook the oil out better and it is maybe easier to spread the weld out 
>over a
>  wider surface on some parts. Old corn picker sprockets jump to mind...
>  ugh! They were often porous crappy cast. Made out of old stoves and
>bath tubs I guess.    <(^¿^)>
>
>
>
>--
>"farmer"
>
>I try to take one day at a time but sometimes several days attack
>me at once.   <(^¿^)>
>
>Refurbished Shopsmith's
>Good used SPT's
>http://www.indiana-robinson.0catch.com/
>
>
>Francis Robinson
>Central Indiana, USA
>robinson at svs.net
>
>
>
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>Remembering Our Friend Cecil Monson 11-4-2005
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>
>
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