[AT] hydraulics problem

[Brett Phillips]

Lew,
  The best I could do would be a snail mail photocopy some time next week, 
since the manual is over at my Dad's place, and my scanner is packed away. 
If you can wait that long, I'll do my best to get it to you next week.
Send me a note off list if you're interested.

Brett
bphillip at shentel.net



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Lew Best" <bee_keeper at earthlink.net>
To: "'Antique tractor email discussion group'" 
<at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Sent: Friday, February 10, 2006 11:17 AM
Subject: RE: [AT] hydraulics problem


> Thanks everyone for the input!
>
> Brett do you by chance have a copy of that manual & a way to send me the
> info on the steering control (scanner or regular "hard copy" by snail
> mail)?  I'd gladly send a SASE for a hard copy if needed or emailed copy
> would be better (AKA faster)   :)  :)
>
> Actually this is a forklift conversion as pictured in
> http://www.johnnypopper.com/weirddeere/Forklifts.html about half way
> down the page showing the JD 440.  Doubt mine will ever look that good
> tho!  Mine is definitely a Henry conversion (can still barely read the
> Henry name on the mast) but the tractor is a 420 U; not a 440.  It does
> have the flow divider valve splitting the ps from the forklift
> hydraulics; one pump.
>
>
> Lew
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
> [mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com] On Behalf Of Brett
> Phillips
> Sent: Friday, February 10, 2006 9:07 AM
> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
> Subject: RE: [AT] hydraulics problem
>
> Lew:
>
> I have a '58 420W with a very similar power steering setup.  It
> appears
> from the picture that you must have the earlier flow-divider setup,
> rather
> than a separate pump.  From my experience, there is little to go wrong
> with
> the valve, and there is also little to fear about disassembling it.  If
> I
> remember correctly (it was 5-6 years ago), all of the rubber parts are
> standard o-rings that can be had at any hydraulics supply house.  The
> only
> tricky part is getting the detent balls and their springs back in, and I
> don't remember having trouble with that.  The JD manual is pretty good
> about
> pointing out the pitfalls and the way around them.  If your woodruff key
> seat(s) is (are) in bad shape, you may be able to have another one
> re-cut
> 180* from the original.  Keep in mind that this will weaken the shaft,
> and
> may cause a wreck!
> The biggest trouble I had with this system was in reducing the
> backlash to
> an acceptable level.  IMHO there are too many opportunities for lost
> motion.
> The three steering shaft couplings (and u-joint if you have a '58 or
> later
> model), steering gear, and steering gear output coupling are all places
> where play develops, and should be eliminated for best system operation.
> The
> Ross steering gear is a good place to start.  If your worm is not worn
> excessively, the tapered studs that ride on it can be replaced for a big
> improvement. JD still had those available last I knew.  New studs will
> make
> it much easier to adjust the box so it is free turning, but with minimal
> backlash.
> I let a NOS worm get by me the other week on Ebay, and that
> would have
> helped my tractor a lot, since I still have some play in my steering box
> that I couldn't eliminate with the pin replacement.  Every once in a
> while,
> you will see some valve parts on Ebay as well, so don't lose hope
> entirely.
>
> Sorry this got long,
>
> Brett Phillips
> back to lurking
>
>
>
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