[AT] hydraulics problem

[Lew Best]

Thanks everyone for the input!

Brett do you by chance have a copy of that manual & a way to send me the
info on the steering control (scanner or regular "hard copy" by snail
mail)?  I'd gladly send a SASE for a hard copy if needed or emailed copy
would be better (AKA faster)   :)  :) 

Actually this is a forklift conversion as pictured in
http://www.johnnypopper.com/weirddeere/Forklifts.html about half way
down the page showing the JD 440.  Doubt mine will ever look that good
tho!  Mine is definitely a Henry conversion (can still barely read the
Henry name on the mast) but the tractor is a 420 U; not a 440.  It does
have the flow divider valve splitting the ps from the forklift
hydraulics; one pump.


Lew

-----Original Message-----
From: at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
[mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com] On Behalf Of Brett
Phillips
Sent: Friday, February 10, 2006 9:07 AM
To: Antique tractor email discussion group
Subject: RE: [AT] hydraulics problem

Lew:

	I have a '58 420W with a very similar power steering setup.  It
appears
from the picture that you must have the earlier flow-divider setup,
rather
than a separate pump.  From my experience, there is little to go wrong
with
the valve, and there is also little to fear about disassembling it.  If
I
remember correctly (it was 5-6 years ago), all of the rubber parts are
standard o-rings that can be had at any hydraulics supply house.  The
only
tricky part is getting the detent balls and their springs back in, and I
don't remember having trouble with that.  The JD manual is pretty good
about
pointing out the pitfalls and the way around them.  If your woodruff key
seat(s) is (are) in bad shape, you may be able to have another one
re-cut
180* from the original.  Keep in mind that this will weaken the shaft,
and
may cause a wreck!
	The biggest trouble I had with this system was in reducing the
backlash to
an acceptable level.  IMHO there are too many opportunities for lost
motion.
The three steering shaft couplings (and u-joint if you have a '58 or
later
model), steering gear, and steering gear output coupling are all places
where play develops, and should be eliminated for best system operation.
The
Ross steering gear is a good place to start.  If your worm is not worn
excessively, the tapered studs that ride on it can be replaced for a big
improvement. JD still had those available last I knew.  New studs will
make
it much easier to adjust the box so it is free turning, but with minimal
backlash.
	I let a NOS worm get by me the other week on Ebay, and that
would have
helped my tractor a lot, since I still have some play in my steering box
that I couldn't eliminate with the pin replacement.  Every once in a
while,
you will see some valve parts on Ebay as well, so don't lose hope
entirely.

Sorry this got long,

Brett Phillips
back to lurking



-- 
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.375 / Virus Database: 267.15.2/253 - Release Date: 2/7/2006