[AT] Rivet how-to

[Larry D. Goss]

Well, I think you have the right idea about making the tool, John, but I
rather doubt that you'll get the leverage you want on that thread
without going to a 3/4 or 1-inch drive socket plus a cheater bar.  I use
a 1/2" ratchet on my Herschel-Adams vise and it takes all the muscle I
can put into it to set mower section rivets.  I could use the breaker
bars that I have, but Ralph already mentioned that you can break the
tool if you're not careful.  I've broken three punches and the punch
holder itself in the last year even with limiting myself to the one-foot
lever arm of the 1/2" ratchet.  I could break things really well if I
had a longer lever.

Larry 

-----Original Message-----
From: at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
[mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com] On Behalf Of John Hall
Sent: Saturday, February 04, 2006 12:52 PM
To: Antique tractor email discussion group
Subject: Re: [AT] Rivet how-to

The only thing is these are about a 60 deg included angle and go to a
sharp 
point. I'll just have to machine the taper in. My plan is to make a king

size tool like you rivet sections with. Before making the tool body I'll
get 
the set end made and use my lathe to hold everything for brading. I'm 
thinking something along the lines of 3/4 fine thread ought to give me 
enough power if I heat the rivet. I think the trick is going to be
getting 
the rivet just the right length.

Are rivets made out of soft steeel such as leadloy or are they something

more like CRS?

John 


_______________________________________________
AT mailing list
Remembering Our Friend Cecil Monson 11-4-2005
http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at