[AT] Rivet how-to

[Larry D. Goss]

Herschel-Adams makes an installation tool for the section bolts, too,
Ralph.  I've put in a lot of them without the tool, but using the tool
is a lot less trouble.  Once again, it's designed so you can do the
operation without having to pull the knife, but it's a bit pricey --
$12.50 USD for an item that's about the size of fingernail clippers.

Larry

-----Original Message-----
From: at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
[mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com] On Behalf Of Ralph Goff
Sent: Saturday, February 04, 2006 11:43 AM
To: Antique tractor email discussion group
Subject: Re: [AT] Rivet how-to

John, this is the type of rivet tool I have.
http://www.westwardparts.com/wwparts/MainDisplay.aspx?CountryCode=cdn
One end of it is a punch /driver that pushes the old rivet out. The
other 
end is the one that does the actual riveting. Its very important to make

sure the other end of the tool is closed when you are putting pressure
on a 
rivet as it can break the tool otherwise. Also the punch can bend and
break. 
I have experienced this myself. I don't use it as much now as I am
gradually 
changing over to bolt on sickles in most of my cutting machinery.

Ralph in Sask.
http://lgoff.sasktelwebsite.net/
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John Hall" <jthall at worldnet.att.net>
To: "Antique tractor email discussion group"
<at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 04, 2006 6:36 AM
Subject: Re: [AT] Rivet how-to


> Thanks Larry. Ever used one of the store bought tools for brading
sickle 
> rivets? They are U shaped with a screw to brad the rivet. I'm thinking
of 
> something along that line. Trying to get the perfect cone is whats 
> throwing me. These rivets show no sign of a straight shoulder and come
to 
> a point.
>
> John
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Larry D. Goss" <rlgoss at evansville.net>
> To: "'Antique tractor email discussion group'" 
> <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> Sent: Friday, February 03, 2006 12:22 AM
> Subject: RE: [AT] Rivet how-to
>
>
>> There are some guys on this list who can answer your question a whole
>> lot better than I can, John, but I'll start.
>>
>> My best guess is that a rivet of that diameter was hot when headed.
I
>> tried to find the name for the pointed head but haven't come up with
it
>> yet.  The round side is a button head.  The conical side would be a
pan
>> head if it didn't come to a point.
>>
>> They could have been peened in place with a pneumatic gun and a
dolly,
>> but there also could have been spinning operation to do the conical
>> heading.
>>
>> I'll dig out the shots I took of the Titan out in Colorado last
summer
>> and see if there's enough detail to get any clues.
>>
>> Larry
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
>> [mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com] On Behalf Of John Hall
>> Sent: Thursday, February 02, 2006 8:43 PM
>> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
>> Subject: [AT] Rivet how-to
>>
>> OK, I need some help from those that have been there done that. I'm
>> restoring a Titan 10-20 that is going to need several wheel spokes
>> replaced.
>> They are held in with about 1/2" rivets. The rivets have a round head
on
>> one
>> side and a point on the other. How is this type of rivet installed?
I'm
>> guessing the rivets were heated? Were they braded pneumatically or
was
>> some
>> sort of press used?
>>
>> John Hall
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> Remembering Our Friend Cecil Monson 11-4-2005
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>
>
> -- 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.1.371 / Virus Database: 267.15.0/249 - Release Date:
2/2/2006
>
> 

_______________________________________________
AT mailing list
Remembering Our Friend Cecil Monson 11-4-2005
http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at