Factory oil recommendations (was Re: [Farmall] parts

Al Jones aljones at ncfreedom.net
Thu Feb 2 19:24:09 PST 2006


Since I'm not buying the oil for anybody's tractor but mine, I hope
nobody has a problem with this! ;) Here is my philosophy on oils: I
spend oodles and gobs, sometimes it seems literally THROWING money, at
an old tractor or whatever to get it back to the shape I want, often
cutting no corner for accuracy/quality of work, etc.  After doing all
that, why would I cut corners on oil? I know the "name brand" will work
because the manual said so, and generally the updated, new & improved
"name brand" is still recommended. Go ahead and cough up the extra money
for the name brand oil.  You can then be 100% sure it will work, because
it doesn't "meet or exceed" the spec for the necessary oil, it IS the
spec!

my $.02
Al

-----Original Message-----
From: farmall-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
[mailto:farmall-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com] On Behalf Of Geoff
Gauger
Sent: Thursday, February 02, 2006 9:44 AM
To: Farmall/IHC mailing list
Subject: Re: Factory oil recommendations (was Re: [Farmall] parts

Well stated and absolutely true!

-----Original Message-----
>From: Mike Sloane <mikesloane at verizon.net>
>Sent: Feb 2, 2006 7:16 AM
>To: Farmall/IHC mailing list <farmall at lists.antique-tractor.com>
>Subject: Factory oil recommendations (was Re: [Farmall]  parts
>
>Please remember that the recommended lubricants found in antique
tractor 
>manuals were for the best available at that time. In the 30-60 years 
>since then, petroleum industry chemists have come out with far superior

>lubricants to what was available back then. So today, even the cheapest

>discount store brand multiweight oil is better for your tractor than
the 
>best single weight non-detergent oil of 1955 (or whatever). Like the 
>writer below, I also use a good quality (NAPA) 15W-40 diesel grade oil 
>in everything - diesel truck, diesel tractor, a dozen gas tractors,
lawn 
>mowers, etc. I buy it in bulk and pump it into everything but my chain 
>saws. I have never had an engine fail due to inadequate lubrication (or

>any other reason).
>
>I see the same myth being perpetuated about using Hy-Tran in IH 
>hydraulic systems, and those who claim that only Hy-Tran will work 
>properly resort to the same "it's in the manual" argument. What they 
>refuse to believe is that the modern "equivalent to Hy-Tran" hydraulic 
>fluids are far superior to the IH Hy-Tran of the 1948 era.
>
>The lesson is that technology does not stand still. You wouldn't want
to 
>be using he same tires they made in 1950, you don't use alcohol for 
>antifreeze, and anyone who lives in a colder climate would agree that a

>12 alternator with solid state regulator is far superior to a 6 volt 
>generator and mechanical regulator. And it is the same with petroleum 
>products.
>
>My opinion, of course, and worth exactly what you paid for it.
>
>Mike
>
>Ferg8n9n at aol.com wrote:
>>  
>> In a message dated 1/30/2006 7:42:53 P.M. Central Standard Time,  
>> jthall at worldnet.att.net writes:
>> 
>> I  noticed you are using multi wieght oil. I don't know how much it
would do  
>> to help but we never run anything but 30W, same as is reccomended by
IHC.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> i think factory oil is always a good idea. Since I have many engines
in  both 
>> hot an cold climates, I use 15- 40 diesel oil in everything, and I
have not  
>> had a problem since I quit penzoil in 1964. It cost no more.
>>    By the way, in 1964 my mentor told me I would never, ever  see a
pro 
>> mechanic put pennzoil in his own car, and i never
have,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
>> _______________________________________________
>> Farmall mailing list
>> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/farmall
>> 
>> 
>
>-- 
>Mike Sloane
>Allamuchy NJ
>mikesloane at verizon.net
>Website: <www.geocities.com/mikesloane>
>Images: <www.fotki.com/mikesloane>
>
>Truth is not only violated by falsehood; it may be equally outraged by
>silence.  -Henri Frederic Amiel philosopher and writer (1821-1881)
>
>
>-- 
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>
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