[Farmall] Painting F-20

joseph buckley josephlbuckley at earthlink.net
Mon Aug 7 13:59:15 PDT 2006


Tony, In addition to all of the advise given, I have a couple of pointers.
I like to use an engine de greaser and a pressure washer for the initial
cleaning. I would recommend removing the mag and taping up any area where
water could get into the engine. After all prep work, and you are ready to
prime, you can wash the remaining oil from the engine with lacquer thinner
in a paint spray gun. I set mine with no fan. This is done by turning the
top knob on the gun clockwise until it is seated. There should be a stream
of thinner coming out. This needs to be done outside as it could be
dangerous and a fire hazard. Be sure to use the same thinner that the
primer calls for. I have used this method for many years and have gotten
good results from the least investment of time. It is recommended to use
finish products from the same manufacturer as the primer. Your local paint
store can help more than I can in that respect. I have used Dupont Imron
for many years, But do not recommend it for this application. There are
serious health concerns. If you go with an enamel, a fisheye remover is a
good idea. I also like to use a hardener to give the finish a good gloss
and protection. Good luck and wear a hair cover when you paint or they are
going to call you "red"!
Joe


> [Original Message]
> From: Tony Pitts <mgomaize at yahoo.com>
> To: Farmall/IHC mailing list <farmall at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> Date: 8/4/2006 10:48:45 AM
> Subject: [Farmall] Painting F-20
>
> OK, so I have the F-20 I have been working on for years running.  Now, I
would like to to be a bit more pleasing to the eye.  Anyone know anyone
within a couple hours of Ann Arbor, MI who paints tractors?
>  
> Barring that, an education on cleaning secrets, and primer, paint
combinations would be appreciated.  If I paint it myself, I will not be
investing in the super safe breathing equipment, so that eliminates certain
types of painst with ISO's (?).
>  
> My guess is that prep would be a slow process, so is there a system I can
use where my first coat of primer could be brushed on as I complete the
prep on a given part?  I don't see myself being able to spend enough time
on it to complete it in a weeken or the like.
>  
> Thanks,
>  
> Tony
>  
> ------------------------------------------
> Tony Pitts
> Ann Arbor, MI
> http://www.oldengine.org/members/pitts/mbf
> ------------------------------------------
> Hudson Mills Old Power Club
> 15th Annual Show June 2-4, 2006
> Dexter, MI
> http://www.hudsonmills.org 
>
>  
> --0-2112825737-1154706491=:82628
> Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
>
> <html><head><style type="text/css"><!-- DIV {margin:0px}
--></style></head><body><div style="font-family:lucida console,
sans-serif;font-size:12pt"><DIV></DIV>
> <DIV>OK, so I have the F-20 I have been working on for years
running.  Now, I would like to to be a bit more pleasing to the
eye.  Anyone know anyone within a couple hours of Ann Arbor, MI
who paints tractors?</DIV>
> <DIV> </DIV>
> <DIV>Barring that, an education on cleaning secrets, and primer, paint
combinations would be appreciated.  If I paint it myself, I will not
be investing in the super safe breathing equipment, so that eliminates
certain types of painst with ISO's (?).</DIV>
> <DIV> </DIV>
> <DIV>My guess is that prep would be a slow process, so is there a system
I can use where my first coat of primer could be brushed on as I complete
the prep on a given part?  I don't see myself being able to spend
enough time on it to complete it in a weeken or the like.</DIV>
> <DIV> </DIV>
> <DIV>Thanks,</DIV>
> <DIV> </DIV>
>
<DIV>Tony<BR> </DIV>------------------------------------------<BR>Tony
Pitts<BR>Ann Arbor,
MI<BR>http://www.oldengine.org/members/pitts/mbf<BR>------------------------
------------------<BR>Hudson Mills Old Power Club<BR>15th Annual Show June
2-4, 2006<BR>Dexter, MI<BR>http://www.hudsonmills.org
> <DIV style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: lucida console,
sans-serif"><BR> </DIV></div></body></html>
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