[Farmall] Oil pressure problem / which is a keeper?

[cliff king]

You can either laugh yer hiney off at this post...or have one heckuva heart attack like I did. My T-340 has the same engine in it..and it had an oil pressure problem. I called Fritz Implement (my local Ih dealer) and found an oil pump was available for the paltry sum of 535.00$ YES, you read that correctly. However, the gears are available so they can be replaced at a much cheaper amount. IH bearings for the crank are no longer available..trust me...I searched the world over and found a partial set..but not oversize like I needed. So a friend of mine called his sources and found some somewheres in Iowa...once again..another heart attack later. Bearings (rods and mains) and gaskets was 185.00. So good luck..once i got everything fixed we have put over 10 hours on it and still have pressure.WOOHOOO!!!!!!!
 
cliff

Stan Bass <headlight at erols.com> wrote:
I recently typed up a response to a similar question elsewhere so with a
little edit, I'll offer it here as well...

Oil can go alot of places, but I would recommend you check the plate on
the bottom of the oil pump. It's common for them to warp and the gasket
blows out between bolts (there goes your pressure).

Drop the oil pan, remove the oil pump, mill the plate flat, replace the
gasket and check for obvious slack in the rods while you are there just
by rocking them with your hand. You shouldn't notice any slack. Put the
pan back on and check your oil pressure.

If you notice any slack in the rods (or crank), worn bearing inserts may
need to be replaced. If the motor has been apart, another possibility is
sloppy re-assembly. I've had 3 tractors in now that had the symptoms you
described that turned out to be a combination of the oil pump plate and
swapped bearing caps. The rods and mains are machined as sets and can't
be swapped around.

One (a C) had number 1 and 4 rod caps swapped (rod number is stamped on
the cam side of the rod and cap, make sure they match). It was in
process of spinning a bearing and was a real mess. Two others (M/SM)
actually had 2 of the main caps swapped. They aren't marked, so a little
harder to find and straighten out, but both had play in the crankshaft
(notice by pulling on the fan belt, or gently prying up on the flywheel)
and one had a major rear main oil leak. On both of these tractors,
correcting the main cap locations, replacing main bearings, and
flattening the oil pump plate regained the oil pressure.

Further inspection is also necessary though if you find this condition.
Depending on how long it has been run in this state the rods will start
to degrade from the extra stress on them (both large and small ends). So
certainly plan on getting the rod bushings replaced if you do a rebuild
(this is a good idea with crank problems or not).

Hoping you find just the warped plate ;)
Stan(VA). 




br549 at hemc.net wrote:
> 
> I have a 340U that looks great, runs well and burns no oil and does
> not smoke but has a oil pressure problem. It is fine (mid-range on the
> gauge) for the first half hour of running, then it drops WAY down -
> lowest mark on the gauge. I have replaced the gauge and oil filter so
> I'm pretty sure that the problem is elsewhere. Do you think it is the
> pump? What should I do next to troubleshoot?
> 
> My other dilemma is that the tractor mentioned above is a '61, has
> brand new rubber, new paint, straight tin, 3 pt. industrial hitch (that is
> missing the stabilizers and one of the stabilizer mounts), a 12 volt
> conversion (haphazardly done) and a PTO engagement problem. I
> recently purchased a '59 340U with power steering, remote hydraulics,
> fast hitch with 3 pt. adapter, working torque amplifier, delux seat,
> power adjust wheels, rear wheel weights, a horn but the hood, grille,
> front side panels are bent and all emblems are missing and the tires
> are shot. The '59 runs well (good oil pressure too) but smokes (think it
> is running rich - black smoke).
> 
> To distill it down, one tractor looks really rough and has bad tires but
> has many options ('59) and the other looks great but has the oil
> pressure and PTO problems ('61). I will be keeping only one of them
> and I like the TA and power steering because I bush hog in tight and
> hilly terrain. Do I swap parts and make the "61 what I want or do I buy
> a parts tractor (know of several Farmall 340 tractors nearby) and start
> fixing the damage on the '59?
> 
> If you'd like pictures of them, I'll take some today and be glad to send
> them your way.
> 
> Thanks and have a great holiday weekend.
>
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