[Steam-engine] Wachs boiler update

[Richard Strobel]

Robert, I have thot about your post for over an hour.  Initially, being a 
newbee, I thot WOW..well removing tubes is quite an extreme adventure!..but 
after running it around..I now feel..what the hell, if all else fails what a 
truely rewarding experience it would be to get with a guru and replace those 
tubes..damn, now that would be fun!!

Thank you so much for your post!!!

Rick


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <HISTMACHRY at aol.com>
To: <steam-engine at lists.stationary-engine.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 19, 2005 5:10 PM
Subject: Re: [Steam-engine] Wachs boiler update


>
>
>
>
> Rick,
>
> If this boiler was mine, or if I was hired to put the boiler back in 
> service,
> at a minimum I would do the following.
>
> 1.     Clean interior of all loose debris, and visually inspect the 
> condition
> of all surfaces.
>
>  2.       Perform an ultrasonic thickness measurement of the shell, tube
> sheets, and firebox sheets, and door hole ring.
>
> 3.    Calculate the working pressure
>
> 4.    Perform initial hydro, pressure based on calculated working pressure
> and appropiate factor of safety.
>
> 5.     Remove all the tubes, clean interior, and visually inspect the
> interior.
>
> 6.    Inspect the lap seam, this can best be done by radiography when the
> tubes are     removed.
>
> 7.   If every thing is good, install the tubes, do a hydro, and fire it 
> up!
>
> At any step along the way, if things look bad, stop and revaluate the 
> boilers
> use.
>
> A hydro in my opinion only tells me your boiler will hold water, that has
> nothing to do with the integrity of the boiler and it's components. The
> ultrasonic metal thickness measurement, done correctly, and even some 
> basic
> calculations can tell you a lot about the boiler. The riveted seam that is 
> weeping may be
> able to be caulked, however it may also be an indicator of another 
> problem.
>
>
> Robert Yuill
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>