[AT] Radiant heat

[Mattias Kessén]

They don't compress, there are different kinds with varying strength. You cant put a pointy object one a board but if you spread the weight you could easily driver your tractor over without compressing it. The thickness only sets how much you can compress it it don't make it compress or not. If you have a two inch board it either compress or not so if you use two two inch boards they compress or not and if one compress 1/8" then two would compress at most 1/4" probably less. ??? If I had more time it might have been a lot more clearifying.

Ivan whats "double bubble"?

Mattias


----- Ursprungligt meddelande ----- 
Från: "charlie hill" <chill8 at cox.net>
Till: "Antique tractor email discussion group" <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Skickat: den 21 oktober 2005 14:44
Ämne: Re: [AT] Radiant heat


> clarification.  We use foam insulation boards here but usually not that 
> thick.  It seems to me that they would compress.
> 
> Charlie
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "charlie hill" <chill8 at cox.net>
> To: "Antique tractor email discussion group" <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> Sent: Friday, October 21, 2005 8:03 AM
> Subject: Re: [AT] Radiant heat
> 
> 
> > Hi Mattias,  that's interesting.  It's pretty much the same as we pour 
> > concrete slabs here (once you translate the millimeters to inches) except 
> > for the insulation.  Are you using foam insulation boards or something 
> > else?
> >
> > Charlie
> > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > From: "Mattias Kessén" <mattias at linderson-mark-bygg.se>
> > To: "'Antique tractor email discussion group'" 
> > <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> > Sent: Friday, October 21, 2005 2:46 AM
> > Subject: SV: [AT] Radiant heat
> >
> >
> >> We do that kinds of floors and above the gravel we would use 100-250 mm's 
> >> of
> >> insulation and at least 50 mm around the concret if possible. 120 mm of
> >> concrete with ironnet (6/150mm) 40 mm from the bottom if you dont want to
> >> use for a lot of very heavy things. If you want to have some stationary
> >> heavy machinery or a heavy stove or something, lessen the insulation and
> >> thicken the concrete an put in more iron. You don't need heating in this
> >> places. That is of course in Sweden but it works fine here :-) Oh and at
> >> least here you need a plumber for the tubing or at least a whole bunch of
> >> photos proving it's done right if you ever want to collect anything from 
> >> an
> >> insurance, once again in Sweden. I would also drain around the building, 
> >> in
> >> fact I wouldn't do any of the things before draining or checking existing
> >> drainage.
> >>
> >> /Mattias
> >>
> >> -----Ursprungligt meddelande-----
> >> Från: at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
> >> [mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com]För Andy Glines
> >> Skickat: den 20 oktober 2005 19:20
> >> Till: at at lists.antique-tractor.com
> >> Ämne: [AT] Radiant heat
> >>
> >>
> >> Well, I finally have my own shop building.  I bought a home that came 
> >> with a
> >> 30 X 50 pole building.  The building is nice but the PO never got around 
> >> to
> >> putting a floor in it.  It is my plan to install a concrete floor ASAP. 
> >> I
> >> hope that I can resist the urge to put "stuff" in there before getting 
> >> the
> >> floor.  There is already a wood stove in the building that I plan to 
> >> keep.
> >> I am considering installing the plumbing for a radiant heat system in the
> >> concrete floor.  The system may not be used right awat but the plumbing 
> >> will
> >> be in place.  I'm looking for lessons learned and tips for this project. 
> >> I
> >> know that there is some ATIS experience with this topic.  My initial 
> >> thought
> >> is that the wood stove will provide the heat for the floor as well.
> >>
> >>
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